Portuguese Camino Day11: “Leave No Trace” on Camino

DAY 11: REDONDELA TO ARCADE – 7.53 miles, 16827 steps

For the first week or so, I planned the route and stages, but now Suzanne, who is a gifted planner, takes over. I wanted her to first experience long days, short days, municipal albergues and private ones, to sleep in a large room full of others, and smaller rooms with bunks beds, private rooms with a shared bath, and hotels. Now that she has had all these experiences, it’s time to pass off the planning for her Camino. In Fão we had decided on the Variante Espiritual, The Spiritual Variant, a slightly longer, but more serene route that was recommended by our friend Billy Drum. We have places booked through Pontevedra, so this is where Suzanne begins to work her planning magic.

One of the few times today when Suzanne could snap a picture of me without others in the frame.

Just north of Redondela, the Coastal Route merges with the Central Route to become one – one crowed and busy Way.  Sure, I had expected more pilgrims as we neared Santiago, but now that The Ways have combined, this sudden influx was unsettling.  I find myself pining for the solitude of our earlier days. The camaraderie that once bonded us pilgrims now seems to be overshadowed by a competitive edge. I find myself feeling annoyed at having to share The Way, which is not The Way of a Pilgrim.   

See #2 in the Leave No Trace guidelines for Pilgrims below.

Leave no Trace Principals for Pilgrims

So I’ve been thinking about adapting Leave No Trace (LNT) guidelines for pilgrims. In the American hiking ecosphere, LNT is a big thing. I’m not sure there is a Camino equivalent, but there sure needs to be (especially, #2).  So here is my adaptation.

A Pilgrim…

• Busses their own table – pilgrims leave no trace but crumbs
• Packs out their tissue – Spain could really up their game on this one. There are not many public toilets, and thus so much toilet tissue left in the bushes.  So don’t leave your white flags of surrender, pack it out pilgrims!
• Picks up at least one piece of someone else’s road trash each day – Again, Spain could really up its game in the litter department. While there are smelly dumpsters every mile or so, in between them is a shocking amount of litter on the road, especially empty cigarette packets.  So, each day, pick up at least one piece of trash and dispose of it properly.
• Leaves those stinky shoes by the door when going inside – it is a kindness to everyone, really.
• Accepts what the Camino provides, when it is provided – “The Camino Provides” is a commonly referred to saying, and it is true, but she provides it when she dog-gone wants to, and not always when and in the way you might want it. So don’t pass up what she has provided, she may not provide it again.
• Engages the local culture. Camino towns have a lot to offer, so eat locally, smile and greet the locals, explore museums, visit churches, and be grateful.
• Is Considerate of Other People/Pilgrims.  Ok, this is #7 on the official LNT guidelines. But for pilgrims, be kind to one another, greeting each other, encourage each other, be quiet in the morning if you get up before others (no loud alarms at 5 am), be quiet at night after others have gone to bed, and pack up before going to sleep.  

Good-bye Kids, write when you get work

Mom & Dad wave good-bye to Veronica and Helena.

Halfway up a punishing incline, we paused at one of the roadside parks to catch our breath. The Kids, AKA Veronica and Helena caught up, and we exchanged heartfelt goodbyes, knowing our paths would likely diverge from here. Its been a joy getting to know them during our shared family meals the last three nights. In a few weeks, Helena starts a new job as a boatbuilder’s intern, learning to build boats, “but not the kind that you and I could afford,” she adds.  Veronica begins work as a nurse.  We won’t see them again because our next few days are either short days or zeros for us. You see, Suzanne turns 60 on Friday, so we’re taking a zero day, our first.

The further we get from Portugal, the less English we see and hear. Road signs and menus are in Spanish, and generally local merchants are not bi-lingual. Those that do speak English, it is highly accented, so Suzanne’s two years of college Spanish is most helpful, unlike my TexMex Spanglish.

Today’s Highlights 

Suzanne admires the Ria de Vigo bay

Today my favorite part was the hilly and beautiful forest walk that open up to give us glimpses into the Ria de Vigo bay.  From time to time, we saw ancient stone mile markers deep in the forest that once marked a now abandoned Way when it went differently.  Instead, we’re walking on what we guess to be an old logging road.  For some reason there are a lot of bicycles, and we watch them struggle as we do, climbing steep hills, some as much as 18° incline.

Then the forest concludes at a road, and across it we see an open meadow and a line of backpacks from REI. A college-age group of Americans. We greet them and learn they had started yesterday in Tui and were doing big miles (Tui was two days ago for us, when we crossed into Spain).  Technically, they started in just over the boarder in Portugal, but only to get their credentials stamped.

No matter what you call it, Belladonna, or Foxglove, it is a beautiful flower. Just don’t have anything to do with it…it is poisonous.

Along The Way we are started to see Belladonna, those beautiful but deadly poisonous nightshades. Also known as Foxglove, these flowers are believed to have special powers to explain why they bend and sway so gracefully. Nothing to do with the wind, the flower is sacred to fairies, and bows to honor them as they pass.

Bubble App is how I measured the angle of the road

The feet, or should I say feat of Day 11.