Te Araroa Trail Blog 1: Ship’s Cove to Hacket Car Park

Hi everyone! I am super excited to share my first series of trail blogs from New Zealand’s South Island along Te Araroa (TA). These blogs are meant to provide a quick snapshot into my day-to-day life on trail, and to highlight some of the more memorable moments 🙂 I hope you enjoy! 

 

Day 1: The Day It All Began

Picton to Endeavor Inlet

 

I started my first day on the TA the same way I begin many days in New Zealand: thinking, “Is it raining?” I strained my ears and could just make out the sound of tiny raindrops gently pattering on the tin roof. It was going to be a wet day.

 

I had spent the previous night at a friend’s house outside Picton at the top of New Zealand’s South Island, obsessively packing and unpacking my backpack three times. Each time, I tried to eliminate any unnecessary items — an extra pen, a third pair of socks, a backup box of band-aids — until I was sure my pack was as light as possible while still covering all the essentials. My friends would store any non-hiking gear for me while I was away.

 

After a quick breakfast and saying my goodbyes, I made my way to Picton’s harbor. The first part of the TA on the South Island follows the Queen Charlotte Track (QCT), a 73 km walking or biking path through the Marlborough Sounds. It’s famous for its stunning views and pleasant walking conditions.

 

The QCT’s starting point — Ship’s Cove — is only accessible by boat. I chose to go with E-Ko Tours, the most affordable option, and one that also offered wildlife viewing. During the two-hour journey, I saw seals, oystercatchers, blue jellyfish, and several species of rare birds. At one point, some members of the tour group spotted Hector’s Dolphins — the smallest dolphins in the world — in the distance, but unfortunately, I wasn’t able to catch a glimpse.

 

Eventually, the boat captain dropped me off at Ship’s Cove, a historic site for both Māori and Pākehā. A beautiful monument commemorated the area’s significance. I took some time to walk around the monument and read the information placards before glancing down at my Garmin and realizing it was already 3:00 p.m.! I still had about 15 km to hike before nightfall, so I had to start moving.

 

The trail began with a steady climb from Ship’s Cove into a nearby inlet, undulating up and down with the jagged coastline. I chatted with another TA hiker who had been on the same boat. He had hiked the entire North Island and gave me tips on adjusting to life on the trail.

 

Towards the end of the evening, we passed through a residential area, and I noticed a sign for the “Rimu Lookout.” I’d heard of rimu trees before and knew they could grow to be several thousand years old, so I was intrigued. I climbed approximately 500 meters up to a viewing platform that stood next to a 1,000-year-old giant. I stood under the tree’s branches for several minutes, reflecting on the history that tree had witnessed. On my way back down to the main trail, I passed a kawa kawa bush and picked a few leaves to brew tea that evening.

 

When I arrived at my campsite in Endeavor Inlet, I was greeted by three TA hikers. We chatted over our dinners of dehydrated veggies and noodles. By 8:00 p.m., the sun was just beginning to sag over the horizon. I yawned, stretched, and said goodnight to my new friends before climbing into my tent. Day 1 had been a success.

Hiking gear laid out on a bed.

The results of my final gear audit before starting the TA South Island

 

 

Day 2: The Nice Weather Day

Endeavor Inlet to Black Rock

 

I awoke to a chorus of birdsong around 6:00 a.m. and streaks of sunlight piercing through the tent wall. I quickly made a breakfast of pre-made porridge mix — oats, instant milk powder, protein powder, and dried fruit — and started walking around 7:30 a.m.

 

The gentle sea breeze rustled the trees as I passed herons stalking their prey on the silent morning waters, and local residents walked their dogs. The trail meandered along the seashore before climbing up to a viewpoint. It was my first glimpse of the Sounds in the light of a sunny day. I marveled at how blue the water looked, still and clear in the morning light, with dramatic green slopes rising out of the sea in layers. In the distance, I caught a glimpse of the North Island.

 

After a few hours of hiking, I met up with my friend from the previous day. We were near one of the designated camping areas with ocean access and decided to go for a swim. The water was cold but refreshing, and I even saw a cute sea star! Afterward, I grabbed an ice cream at a nearby resort and listened to the chatter of day trippers.

 

The afternoon passed quickly, and most of the time was spent climbing a hot and dusty ridgeline. I enjoyed the varying views of the Sounds and noted how different the water color seemed to be in each inlet.

 

I arrived at my campsite around 7:00 p.m. and quickly realized I was late. Over 15 hikers and bikers had already pitched their tents in the small camping space, leaving just one spot for me — on a slope. I set up my tent on the flattest part of the slope I could find, but still found myself sliding down my sleeping pad multiple times during the night. I made a mental note to try to arrive earlier in the future.

 

Before going to bed, I took extra precautions to zip all my bags and tuck my food away. The campsite was stalked by wekas — curious and bold birds that have been known to run away with food, camping supplies, and other trinkets. I’d already fought several battles with wekas in the past and didn’t want a repeat. Thankfully, I woke up the next morning to find all my items still safely tucked away inside, and no holes in my tent. Success.

 

A view of the Marlborough Sounds from the Queen Charlotte Track

 

Day 3: The Bioluminescent Day

Black Rock to Mistletoe Bay

 

Day 3 was the day I decided to trust my gut. After a relatively short morning of walking, I arrived at Mistletoe Bay around 11:00 a.m. I had read in the FarOut app that this campsite had bioluminescent water visible at night. It seemed too early for me to stop hiking, and I already had a reservation for a campsite about five miles away — but I just felt drawn to this place and REALLY wanted to see the bioluminescence.

 

After a prolonged coffee break, I gave in to my curiosity and paid for a tent site. I also rented a kayak. It was a cloudy day, so it was hard to see deep into the ocean. However, I was able to spot nearly two dozen manta rays resting near the shore. Most were small, but several were over three feet wide! I also spotted lots of blue jellyfish. It was amazing!

 

After sunset, I eagerly went out to the jetty to see the bioluminescent water. As I approached, my heart sank. The water was pure black. I plopped down on the wooden planks, feeling disappointed. Another QCT hiker sat next to me and quickly passed me a stick she was holding. At her direction, I dipped the stick into the water and began swirling it around. Instantly, blue sparks started flying all around where the stick moved. The specks glimmered and sparkled in the dark water. My heart nearly skipped a beat, and I definitely let out a loud giggle. It was truly magical.

 

Kayaking with manta rays along the Queen Charlotte Track

 

Day 4: The Hitchhike Day

Mistletoe Bay to Pelorus Bridge

 

Day 4 was a travel day. I walked the final 10 km of the QCT before lunch and arrived in the cute town of Anakiwa. The parking lot was full of a group of about 40 high schoolers with matching backpacks and forlorn faces. From what I could tell, they were about to begin their QCT hike — and not all of them were excited about it. I couldn’t help but laugh inside. 

 

The next part of the TA followed a road from Anakiwa to the town of Havelock, and then on to Pelorus Bridge. I already knew I didn’t want to complete all of the road walks (which are notorious on the TA), so I stood on the side of the road and stuck out my thumb. Less than five minutes later, I was climbing into the back of a kind family’s car headed for Havelock.

 

Havelock is a small town with a few cute cafes and a grocery store. I devoured a pastry from a coffee shop and some fresh fruit from the grocery store. I also purchased three more days of food, which would last until my next resupply. As I was leaving town, I passed a burger shop and ended up eating a second — and much more satisfying — lunch: a giant chicken sandwich. It really hit the spot.

 

After that, I caught another ride to Pelorus Bridge with a young couple from Nelson. By then, a light drizzle had begun, and the weather wasn’t looking ideal for hiking. So, I decided to settle in for the night and set up my tent by the riverbank. My legs, however, weren’t ready to stop, so I ended up going on a casual (and wet) walk through the bush to see two waterfalls. I spent nearly an hour just sitting by the river. It was incredibly soothing and immediately put my busy mind at ease.

 

A view of the river from Pelorus Bridge

 

Day 5: The Day of My First Big Climb

Pelorus Bridge to Rocks Hut

 

Day 5 was an exciting day: I was scheduled to enter Mount Richmond National Park! Of all the places on the TA, the Richmond Ranges were the section I was most excited about. Perhaps because people say it’s the most challenging section. Or perhaps because I had spent the last three months living around the area, always looking up at the mountains, thinking, “I’m going to hike you!”

 

The rain had cleared up overnight, but my tent was drenched. I carefully packed it up and folded it inside my pack’s rain protector before shoving it in my bag. Hopefully, that helped prevent my tent from leaking onto everything else.

 

The next part of the TA was about 15 km of road walking to the next trailhead. I stood by the road at 8:30 a.m., eagerly waiting for a friendly driver. No one came. Eventually, after about 20 minutes of no cars passing, I gave up and started walking.

 

About 3 km down the road, I heard a car behind me and stuck out my thumb. The driver was a local resident and offered me a lift to the trailhead. During our 20-minute ride, we talked about everything from global politics to the best local hiking trails. I really enjoyed the conversation.

 

Once on the trail, I followed a river for several hours, crossing my first few single-person swing bridges. While I’m sure they’re perfectly safe, each time I crossed one, my stomach clenched a little. I could feel each step causing the bridge to sway and squeak, and my oversized foam sleeping pad always seemed to bump against the bridge’s edges, making it harder to move forward. It wasn’t until I made it safely across that I could look back and admire the river below.

 

In the afternoon, I faced my first real challenge: climbing approximately 2,000 feet over 2 miles. The track was uneven and filled with giant tree roots, making it difficult to move quickly. That said, the forest was beautiful, with a thousand shades of green. I also spotted bright purple and deep red mushrooms.

 

By the time I reached the top, I was drenched in sweat. I stumbled into my first Department of Conservation (DOC) hut on the trail: Rocks Hut. The hut had 16 beds, a cooking area, a table, and a beautiful deck. A family of six was already there, preparing and eating dinner. I claimed a bed at the far end of the hut and spent a quiet night listening to my audiobook, enjoying the warmth of my sleeping bag.

 

One of many swing bridges on the Pelorus River Track

 

Day 6: New Shoes Day

Rocks Hut to Hacket Car Park

 

I woke to the sound of bird calls and children’s footsteps. The family I shared the hut with was up and getting ready for another day of hiking. I sat at the communal breakfast table with some of the kids, who eagerly told me stories about walking across the North Island. I was astounded and utterly impressed that they were walking across New Zealand as a family — and thriving at it!

 

When I left the hut, I was immediately greeted by several hundred feet of muddy trail. It had rained overnight, and the soggy ground was just waiting to trap another foot in it. Within minutes, my shoes had turned from blue to brown as I clumsily trudged through the mud.

 

Thankfully, the trail eventually returned to hard-packed dirt and tree roots, allowing me to continue more easily. I caught my first glimpses of the towering mountains ahead and felt insanely excited to reach them!

 

Around midday, I reached an intersection. The trail continued onward, but I turned right to Hacket Car Park. This side trail was for TA hikers who needed to resupply. I had already mailed a food box to a trail angel who lived just 1 km from the car park, and I was eager to pick it up. More importantly, my new shoes were there! I was SO excited to swap my worn-out pair for the new ones.

 

The trail angel had a beautiful home with an idyllic orchard, where TA hikers could pitch their tents. There were already a few other people there, and we sat in a circle, eating our respective dinners and swapping stories. I’ve always loved the community you form on trail, and I especially love how international the TA community is.

 

With my new shoes and food in tow, and my heart full from new friends, I was ready to start the Richmond Alpine Track!

My first glimpse of mountains near Mt Richmond

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Comments 1

  • Phil : Jan 22nd

    Enjoyed your post. Look forward to more

    Reply

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