Te Araroa Trail Blog 3: St Arnaud to Arthur’s Pass

Part 3 of my day-by-day summary of my walk across Aotearoa New Zealand’s South Island on Te Araroa. 

 

Day 13: The Day I Escaped the Town Vortex

St. Arnaud to Lakehead Hut-ish 

Sleeping on a mattress is pure luxury. I woke up to bright light streaming through the hostel curtains and the smell of mothballs. For a moment, I thought I was in my grandma’s guestroom. Then I remembered that I was, in fact, walking Te Araroa and had spent the night at the alpine lodge in St. Arnaud. Ah, it felt so good!

My morning was spent completing my remaining town chores: purchasing resupply items, cleaning my cook set, and calling friends and family back home. For lunch, I waddled over to the lodge’s fancy restaurant and ordered a large pizza and beer. I devoured the pizza in less than 10 minutes and had to restrain myself from ordering a second one.

By mid-afternoon, I could feel the urge to renew my hostel booking for another night. The fluffy pillow. The warm shower. The hot food. Oooo, so tempting! But! I was determined to hike on.

I left St. Arnaud around 3:00 p.m., with an ice cream in hand. My plan was to walk about 6 miles along Nelson Lake to the first natural stopping point: Lakehead Hut. The sun was out in full force, and I slowly meandered through the lush beech forest as I listened to the sound of jetboats and laughing children. At one point, I took a cold plunge into the lake water and giddily splashed my face to wash off the salty sweat.

All too soon, I reached Lakehead Hut. It was tucked in a beautiful valley next to a babbling brook. As I laid out my tent’s ground cover, I was immediately attacked by hundreds of sandflies. They buzzed all over my body and backpack to the point that I inhaled two! This was not fun.

The sun was still out, so I decided to escape sandfly hell and keep walking. I followed the trail through another set of beautiful valleys, over a swing bridge, and to a wide meadow. It was now approaching 8:00 p.m., and I felt pretty accomplished for the day. I set up my tent in the meadow, cooked couscous for dinner, and snuggled into my sleeping bag just as the light was fading.

 

Day 14: The Day of Waterfalls and Views

Lakehead Hut-ish to West Sabine Hut

I woke up super energetic and excited to tackle the first big climb of this section: Travers Saddle. To get there, I had to pass two huts, a huge waterfall, and climb 1,500 feet in less than 1.5 miles. It was going to be a big day!

I walked about 3 miles from my campsite to John Tait Hut, where I cooked a late breakfast and set out my tent and sleeping bag to dry. The sun was strong, so everything was dry—and on the verge of roasting—within 20 minutes. I filled up my water from the stream and headed on.

About an hour later, I came upon Travers Falls—a stunning waterfall set in a moss-covered alcove. I could feel the cold mist coming off the waterfall from hundreds of feet away. I settled down on an overhang and just relaxed, marveling at the strength and power of the water. It was pure magic.

Next came Upper Travers Hut, nestled at the base of Travers Saddle. As I cooked my lunch of instant mashed potatoes, I looked out the hut’s window at the sweeping valley below and towering mountains above. The sunlight streamed through the glass and warmed my aching muscles in the best way possible. Pretty soon, another hiker arrived: my friend from the Queen Charlotte Track. We quickly caught up on trail life and decided to hike the next section together!

By early afternoon, my friend and I began the steep, exposed ascent to Travers Saddle. The sun was relentless, and I slowly picked my way up the big stones. At one point, a falcon circled above us, diving down to inspect our packs and gear—and to ensure we weren’t any threat to it.

Finally, we arrived at the saddle. To my right stood a tall peak with snow sliding down its rock face. To my left rose a chain of incredible mountains—each carved by massive rivers and dotted with green plants. It was breathtaking.

The descent from the saddle was hard on our knees. We lost the trail at one point and ended up scrambling around for 10–15 minutes before finding it again. We crossed a bridge that spanned the gap of a huge ravine and then continued on to West Sabine Hut. We arrived around 7:30 p.m., and I was completely spent.

The huts on this section of trail are not included in the TA Hut Pass, so I set up my tent by the river and collapsed.

 

Day 15: The Day I Couldn’t Stop Smiling

West Sabine Hut to the Forks River

This was the type of day that every thru-hiker dreams about. Sunny. Beautiful. And with lots of views!

My friend and I left West Sabine Hut and began the climb to Blue Lake. This lake is famous for holding the clearest freshwater in the entire world, and I couldn’t be more excited! By mid-morning, we had reached Blue Lake Hut, and I geeked out when reading the sign about how scientists measure the clarity of the water. The lake is considered sacred, so you can’t touch the water, but I absolutely loved watching the wind ripple across the top and plants sway on the lake floor. It was about midday and hot, so my friend and I found a shady spot for a quick nap and lunch. I dozed off to the sound of Tuis and Fantails.

Next, we had a big climb up to Lake Constance and Waiau Pass. Lake Constance feeds into Blue Lake, but the water isn’t as clear. When I visited, a group of geese had taken up residence on the southern shore, and they quacked noisily as I approached. The ascent to the pass was steep and exposed (like most climbs on the TA), and I felt like I was sweating buckets.

The view from the top, though… INCREDIBLE! I couldn’t stop smiling from ear to ear as I looked down upon Lake Constance and the valley further below. The wind rustled my hair and dried my sticky sweat. I felt like I was on top of the world.

On the other side of the pass, we faced a tricky descent that involved multiple rock scrambles. I think basic bouldering skills are a necessity for any TA hiker, and I often had to put my full weight into my handholds as I delicately lowered myself down with my full pack. By the time we reached the valley floor, the sun was already low in the sky, and we camped by the river.

Just as I climbed into my tent, a crack of thunder crackled across the earth.

 

Day 16: The Day I discovered Hiker Wool

Forks River to Anne Hut

I clocked over 22 miles on the long walk from the river to Anne Hut. The first few hours were spent picking my way across boulders and rocks as we followed the river south. Then, the trail opened into a huge field, and we took a lunch break at Waiau Hut. The hut was full of sandflies, and I hastily shoved my tortilla wrap and peanut butter into my face.

The afternoon was sunny and picturesque as we walked along the valley. The towering mountains looked down upon us, and I felt so small as I walked through the big expanse. At one point, we saw a wild horse. Apparently, a whole group of horses is allowed to run wild in this area. Every two years, they round up the wild horses and sell them at auction—which was happening in just a few days. Another hiker I met had seen the horse wranglers leading groups of up to 20 horses over the mountain passes to the auction site. We also passed through several private homesteads and groves of shrub trees. The walk was relatively easy, albeit long.

The many river crossings and muddy patches left my feet wet and stinky. I lamented the tower of blisters that seemed to be forming on my heels, which never had the chance to heal in the wet environment. My friend, seeing my discomfort, offered me hiker wool. You attach the wool to the inside of your sock, and it provides extra cushioning. It’s like wearing a second pair of socks, but just in the part where you need it. I thought this was ingenious and immediately started using hiker wool to soothe my aching heels.

By 6:30 p.m., Anne Hut was in view. This newly built hut had two bunk rooms and a separate cooking/eating space. I staggered in with sore feet and watched the sun set over the valley. I climbed into a top bunk and waited as the light turned to dark pink before closing my eyes. It had been a good day.

 

Day 17: The Day of a Long Hitch

Anne Hut to Hamner Springs

I woke up feeling excited: today, we were heading into town! The journey from Anne Hut to the highway near Boyle Village was about 18 miles, and I was determined to make it. We walked through more valleys, crossed boardwalks over boggy patches, and passed two huts. The first was old and rundown, looking like something straight out of a horror movie. The second was large and modern, the perfect spot for a lunch break.

At one point, we stopped by a river to snack and refill our water bottles. The sandflies were relentless, constantly buzzing around my face, and I kept swatting them away. Nearby, a small spider with a golden-red back had spun a web. I watched as one… two… five sandflies flew right into the web. The spider pounced on each one, wrapping them tightly in its webbing for later consumption. I couldn’t help but feel a little vindicated knowing at least a few of the sandflies would end up as spider snacks.

By mid-afternoon, the trail opened up to Boyle Village, which was essentially a primitive campsite and outdoor education center. More importantly, the highway passed right by it. My friend and I eagerly stood by the side of the road with our thumbs out, hoping for a kind soul to give us a ride.

After about 20 minutes, a woman from Christchurch pulled over and offered us a lift. She kindly drove us to the turnoff to Hamner Springs, about 45 minutes away. From there, we stood at the intersection hoping for a second ride. A friendly couple in a huge RV stopped, and after a nice chat, they drove us the final few miles into town. They pointed us to a popular hostel, but to our dismay, it was fully booked — as were most accommodations in the tourist town. After a brief moment of panic, we found a spot with two open bunks.

That evening, I indulged in some delicious Indian food: curry, dosas, roti, and a mango lassi. My friend and I did our laundry (much needed) and hung it on the hostel’s clothesline. I fell asleep with aching — but happy — feet.

 

Day 18: The Day with the Cute Hut

Hamner Springs to Hope Kiwi Lodge

Rhubarb muffin. Oh, how I loved you!

The best part of town visits is always the food. I eagerly went to a trendy coffee shop for pastries and drinks, settling in to watch all the clean, posh weekenders enjoying eggs benny. It was a beautiful Saturday morning in summer, and Hamner Springs was bustling with people making the most of the last days before school started. That morning, I took my shirt off the clothesline to find it still damp. With no other option, I put on my wet shirt and headed into town.

After savoring the delicious muffin, I stopped at the local grocery store, Four Square, to resupply. I picked up tuna packets, trail mix, cheese, and even a cucumber! Then I rushed back to the hostel to reorganize my bag before the 10 a.m. checkout. With my giant, smelly pack on my back, I stopped by the library to get a few personal tasks done. Afterward, I treated myself to another visit to the coffee shop for carrot cake and a second muffin. Yum!

When I couldn’t delay any longer, I walked to the edge of town and started hitchhiking. Two other hikers I knew were also there, so we formed a sad little group, desperately sticking out our thumbs at every passing car. It took quite a while, but we eventually got a ride to the highway junction, and even longer to get back to Boyle — but we made it!

From Boyle, I had about 10 miles to go before reaching Hope Kiwi Lodge. The “lodge” turned out to be a hut, but a beautiful one! It had gorgeous wood paneling, two separate bedrooms, a large dining area, and huge panoramic windows. My food bag was full from the morning resupply, and I happily dug into some hot couscous and chocolate.

That evening, I heard a male kiwi! Its loud, distinctive call echoed in the distance outside the hut, and I felt an overwhelming sense of contentment.

 

Day 19: The Day with the Hot Springs 

Hope Kiwi Lodge to Hurunui No 3 Hut

I set out that morning knowing it was going to rain, and I wasn’t thrilled about it. The first part of the trail took me along the edge of a forest bordering a cattle farm. Between the cow dung and deep mud, my shoes, feet, socks, and pant legs absolutely reeked. The trail was also meandering and poorly marked in this section, and I found myself hopping over paddock fences in search of the correct path. A few times, I came across cows in the forest. When they saw me, they panicked and ran back to the fields.

Eventually, I reached Hurunui Hut, which had a large sun deck where I attempted to dry my wet and stinky socks. I met an older couple who generously offered me a small bag of lollies (candies) and some encouraging words. I could see dark clouds rolling in, so I donned my raincoat and set off again.

The next section had a special treat: a natural hot spring. I’d been hearing about these springs for weeks, and I was super excited. The first came to a small waterfall that smelled strongly of sulfur and released hot steam. I pressed my hands against the rocks and felt the warm water trickle over my skin. Then, I followed the trail around the waterfall to a small natural hot pool. By this point, it was raining steadily, so I quickly stripped off my clothes and lowered myself into the pool. The contrast of the warm water bubbling up from below and the cold rain falling from above was pure magic.

But of course, nothing is ever perfect. As soon as I emerged from the hot springs, I was immediately swarmed by the insatiable sandflies while I tried to get dressed in the rain. It was a long and cumbersome process, and I left with several new red welts.

Thankfully, it was only another 1.5 hours to Hurunui Hut No. 3, where I’d spend the night. This hut had triple-decker bunk beds! I snagged a spot on the second level. There were several other hikers already there, and we ate dinner together, swapping stories about previous wildlife encounters. It felt great to be out of the rain!

 

Day 20: The Day of Grumps

Hurunui No 3 Hut to Kiwi Hut

Sometimes, you’re just grumpy on the trail. There doesn’t always have to be a reason, but it can be tough to shake the bad mood.

Day 20 was my grumpy day. I left the hut surrounded by low-hanging clouds, walking through dripping wet trees and grassy fields. I came across a river that wasn’t crossed by a bridge but by a “crossing wire” — a tightrope that hikers had to balance on. It was an experience.

I then climbed up to Arthur’s Saddle and looked out at the valley below. The descent was steep and long, and my knees buckled with the effort. The trail soon spat me onto a riverbed, and I had to walk across boulders for what felt like an eternity.

At this point, I was convinced I was getting sick. Maybe it was the rain, maybe it was swimming naked in the hot spring, or maybe my body was just worn out. Regardless, I found myself popping cough drops and feeling crummy.

When I finally reached Kiwi Hut, I was completely over it. I was tired of wet feet, tired of the rain, and I just wanted to be warm, dry, and eat something other than instant mashed potatoes. To top off my terrible mood, Kiwi Hut was infested with sandflies. They swarmed at the door and rushed inside every time someone had to pee or get water. I was bitten so many times while using the bathroom that I developed a line of red bumps on my butt. Ugh.

Sitting in the hut, my fellow hikers and I discussed the next few days. A large storm was forecasted, and the next part of the TA involved walking up a river on the Deception Track. It was an iconic section, but not advisable in bad weather. With my sniffles and sandfly bites, I didn’t want to race the storm up the mountain.

In the end, we all decided to bail a day early. Now, we just had to cross the final 6 miles before reaching the road to Arthur’s Pass.

 

Day 21: The Day I Bailed 

Kiwi Hut to Christchurch 

Just 6 more miles. I could do it. Or could I?

This question ran through my mind over and over as I trudged from Kiwi Hut to the highway. Less than a mile out, I lost the trail and found myself spinning in circles in the middle of a dry riverbed, trying to find it. Eventually, I gave up and followed the river, knowing it would eventually lead me where I needed to go.

I stumbled across the trail a few more times, but I’d lose it again within minutes. I later learned that most hikers just follow the river in this section because the trail is so poorly marked. When I did find the trail, it was often overgrown with spiky plants that tore at my legs and arms. The final few miles took me up and down a steep bank. I shouted in frustration before abandoning the trail for the river. I ended up crossing the river a half mile early and walking over boulders until I reached the highway. There, I met up with three hikers from Kiwi Hut, who were all unsuccessfully trying to hitch a ride.

After 30 minutes, one of the hikers groaned in frustration, grabbed her pack, and started walking. She’d been there for nearly an hour and figured it was better to make some progress than stay stuck. A few minutes later, a campervan pulled up with one seat left. The other two hikers were traveling together, so I took the offered seat. The drivers were a super friendly couple from Australia on their honeymoon, and their kindness and joy helped lift my spirits.

As we drove over Arthur’s Pass, I felt like we were entering a new world. Behind us were dark storm clouds and dread. Ahead of us were blue skies and hope. When I climbed out of the van, I felt like a different person. I walked around the small village, watched the tourists, and saw a Kea steal a sandwich from a man’s hand. I found a picnic table and laid out my stinky socks to dry in the sun. I was so happy to feel the sun on my skin.

About an hour later, I stuck my thumb out at the edge of Arthur’s Pass. Within 5 minutes, a car pulled over. The driver was a tour guide headed to Christchurch, the largest city on the South Island. It was a two-hour drive, and I eagerly accepted the ride.

Once in Christchurch, I checked into a swanky hostel and collapsed into a fluffy bed with real blankets and a pillow. Ahhh… luxury!

 

Day 22: The Day of Food

Christchurch

I. Wanted. Food.

And I wanted it ALL.

The best part about being in the South Island’s largest city was the sheer variety of food available. Upon waking to the growl of my stomach, I rushed to the grocery store and filled my basket with fresh produce, eggs, falafel, and delicious drinks. I ate breakfast. Then a second breakfast. And then devoured several snacks.

Eventually, I made my way to the Christchurch library, where I holed up at one of the public computers to catch up on life. The guest passes for the computers were valid for 30 minutes. Every half hour, I groaned as the computer logged me out and I grabbed a new guest pass. The stack of passes quickly piled up higher and higher, forming a small mountain on the desk.

When I went to the bathroom, I was horrified by my reflection. My hair was matted, my skin still streaked with dirt (despite showering the night before), and my clothes were looking worn. This was definitely not my best moment.

After leeching off the library’s internet for hours, I decided I needed some sunshine. I found a Bahn Mi place and scarfed down my sandwich in under five minutes.

I then joined a free walking tour of Christchurch, where I learned that the World Busker Festival was taking place that week. I watched performers duct tape each other while doing handstands and another who skillfully juggled fire sticks. 

I waddled back to the hostel, made myself a giant plate of food, and found that I was one of four TA hikers staying there. We quickly bonded, and it was “welcome hour” at the hostel. To our surprise, we each received a glass of champagne and orange juice. We clinked glasses and toasted to the adventure ahead. Afterward, we headed to a local pub, where we managed to score a free pizza.

With two dinners happily in my belly, I bought a ticket to one of the Busker Festival’s paid shows. An hour later, I found myself sitting in the front row of a comedy/circus performance. The performers were incredible, and I felt so rejuvenated. Town life was amazing.

 

Day 23: The Day of Chill (and more food)

Christchurch 

I slept until the late, late hour of 8:00 a.m.—unheard of on trail. I didn’t want to leave my fluffy mattress, but eventually, I dragged myself up and out. I made a massive breakfast, headed to the library (again), and then visited a food hall where I purchased a huge portion stir-fried veggies and a giant bag of cherries. As if that wasn’t enough, I then ate two whole avocados.

That afternoon, I took it easy around the hostel and went for a relaxing walk in the botanical gardens. In the evening, I returned to another show at the World Busker Festival. The performers twisted, spun, and danced across the stage, and I felt completely transported. I was sinking into the luxuries of town life. It felt so nice, but also served as a reminder that it was time to leave. I was determined to go back to trail tomorrow!