There’s been a Black Eyed Peas Resurgence in Colorado (Days 57-62)

Source: me.

Day 57

I woke up on the couch of Reed, a former PCT and AT thru hiker who now lives and works in Steamboat. He had graciously hosted me for the past 2 nights and I’d had an excellent time. While in town I hadn’t done all that much. The only noteworthy events were the incredible carne asada plate I ordered at Fiesta Jalisco and shaving off my gross beard. I had been growing tired of it, but found a spider nesting in it a couple days ago and that was the last straw. Feeling like I lost some nasty, dirty thru hiker street cred, but also a bit more human. 

I got a late start out of town today, but scored a hitch pretty early into my road walk out of town. Triple crowner, Taco and her friend whose name is escaping me (if you’re reading this, I am so sorry!) scooped me, put a soda in my hands, and even slack packed me for the first few miles of the day! They drove further down the trail in search of more hikers to bless with trail magic. 

Hiking without a pack was incredible! I even jogged for about 15 minutes. Even without pack weight, though I was quickly reminded that running is hard. Especially at elevation. When my incredible trail angel saviors made it back to me, they informed me that there were 4 sobos in front of me! I had no idea I was so close to others (Booster and Rocket were still in Steamboat) and was determined to catch them. 

It took until almost the end of the day, but eventually I caught up to hikers Frozen, Tunes, and Footloose. They’re great! We began chatting and I found out Tunes and Footloose work at a Dairy Queen. My first ever job was at a Dairy Queen and we bonded over our shared hatred for making the banana split blizzard. The four of us hiked together for the rest of the night and found some flat spots in the pines to set up camp. Unfortunately, I had to put the cowboy camping streak to bed tonight. High winds and ominous clouds forced me into my tent, but I was happy to reunite. I love my tent. 

Day 58

Hooooly wind! Today was full of ridge walking and high peaks and the strongest wind of the trail yet. I was reminded of a time back in high school when I was working on a landscaping project with a friend. We were goofing around with the leaf blowers, blowing them into each other’s and our own faces. The wind was strong enough to knock me off my balance and make my cheeks flap. Good thing I shaved the beard. Much more aerodynamic. 

I hiked with the trio I’d met yesterday again today. We didn’t hike side by side all day, but it was nice to regroup at water sources and viewpoints. 

This was my favorite day of hiking so far in Colorado. The state is off to a strong start with incredible 360 views and beautifully cut trail. It has been freezing cold, windy, and hilly, but the views have made up for all that. 

There was a very challenging climb that we’d planned to hit late in the day, but as it drew closer we were running out of time. We’d taken many breaks throughout the day. They were great, but had slowed us down. We decided to camp just before the climb. It was apparently the steepest climb on the whole of the CDT, so I was less than devastated to put it off til the morning. 

Day 59

The wind was much more reasonable today, but the climb was just as tough as it was made out to be. On the steepest mile, we gained just over 1100 feet. It challenged me to the point I had to break out my secret weapon, the black eyed peas. Particularly, the album the E.N.D. Please don’t ask me to defend it. I can’t explain myself, but it puts me in a feral, peak chasing state of mind. 

I arrived at the peak panting and foaming at the mouth somewhere between ring a ling and party all the time. I took a rest at the top and before long booster and rocket caught up to me! It was great to see them again and we ended up hiking most of the rest of the day together. I hiked a little further than tunes and co., but not as far as booster and rocket. Tomorrow we would hike thru grand lake, another small ski town. I planned to do a mini resupply and then hike a few miles out of town. 

As I was cooking dinner tonight I heard branches snapping over my left shoulder, turned around and found myself about 30 feet from a massive bull moose! By far the biggest I’d seen. We locked eyes for a moment, but he paid me no mind. He romped right on through the meadow behind me to carry out his moose business. 

Day 60

This morning I woke up to a frozen tent. I reached up to gauge the condensation that had accumulated through the night and was surprised to hear and feel my tent walls cracking. The condensation on the inside of the walls had frozen and was now falling down on me. I shook the frost off as well as I could, but I’d definitely need to set the tent out to dry later in the day. 

The woods surrounding the trail today were lush and full and green and it occurred to me that I actually miss the green tunnel of the AT. I liked how I could just get lost in the leaves and hike on. Out here, it can be difficult to not be painfully aware of how slowly you’re moving. Of course, there are good things about being able to see far in all directions as well. 

 In the morning I’d hiked over Bowen Pass and on the way down I ran into Thirsty Boots, a 72 year old hiker who had hiked all 3 US long trails multiple times. Most recently, the AT (for the 4th time) in 2019! He was out on a section hike this time around. I chatted with him for a little while and then continued on hiking. Imagine my surprise when I ran into him again about an hour later! Turns out Thirsty books had a nearly perfect doppelgänger just a few miles down the same trail we were both on. 

I arrived in grand lake around noon, quickly grabbed a few items from the store, free coffee from the outfitter, and jumped right back onto the trail. The first 8 or so miles were amazing! Very flat, views of the Colorado river, bright yellow beginning of fall leaves, and well maintained. I couldn’t help but think it would be the perfect out and back trail run. I hiked just about until dark, making it a little over 15 miles out of town and camping in a very small, but serviceable flat spot. 

Big news in the dinner department. Recently I’ve been experimenting with gravy and other seasoning packets in my dinners. Tonight, I feel like I cracked the code for ramens. 2 ramen packets, one of their seasoning packets, about a third a pack of instant potatoes, and a gravy packet. I also had some Doritos to go with it. Certainly enough sodium and I feel a little gross admitting it, but it hit the spot. 

Day 61

Today was long, but awesome! There was some rain in the middle of the day, but by the evening the sun was out again and I was able to dry off before getting to camp. I’d had “break my stride” stuck in my head for days and I finally got enough service to download the song this morning. Today, instead of the black eyed peas, it was Matthew Wilder on repeat. 

Today was a long day, but with only one large climb up to James peak. Once I got over the peak and down the other side of the mountain I’d only have about 10 miles into town. With mr wilder in my ears and probably too much caffeine in my bloodstream, I hiked hard for most of the day. I didn’t see any hikers today and only stopped at a couple viewpoints and to filter water. It was exhausting, but made for a productive day. Unfortunately, by the time I was really gaining altitude on James Peak, the clouds were rolling in and it was starting to rain. Luckily, it was a pretty light storm, but I didn’t get much of a view from the peak. Can’t win em all! 

On the south side of the mountain, the sun came back out and thank goodness for that! It was freezing at the top of the mountain and I was glad to dry off and warm up in the light. I did end up having to do a little night hiking tonight, but only about 30 minutes in conditions dark enough to have to break out the headlamp. Once I got to camp, I was too tired to cook dinner. I ate a pop tart and a couple granola bars, threw up my tent, and went to bed. 

Day 62

Only about 7 miles into town today and I couldn’t wait! I’d heard glowing reviews of the “Viking lodge” where I’d been staying all the way back in east glacier! 

I woke up early to get into town asap and started the day off hiking in a light rain. The wind really wasn’t bad, but I was about as socked in as I’ve been on the way up mt. Flora. Gotta give it up for the trail architects and maintainers in CO. With exception to the incredibly steep climb up park view, grading has been reasonably gentle. Still a big increase in elevation gain recently, but more long climbs than short, steep ones. 

I pretty much sleepwalked my way up mt flora and before I knew it, I was at the road crossing that would bring me into Winter Park (Berthoud Pass). I got a quick hitch into town from Jonathan and Bethany. Thanks! They dropped me off at the Viking lodge where I immediately settled up with the front desk and went to my room to get showered and into some cleaner clothes. 

Once I’d showered and done laundry, I went to the post office. My parents had mailed me a resupply box I’d packed back in July. The box also had my fleece which would immediately improve my on trail quality of life bc BRRRRRRRR. I topped off my resupply with a couple things from the store and then made my way back to the lodge. Booster and Rocket arrived in town around then and we went to track down some tater tots. We found the tots at “the ditch on 40”, a bar across the street from the lodge. They were great! 

After lunch, I went back to the room to take a bath and a nap. I’m pretty sure booster and rocket did the same. Hikers are not hard to predict. Once I woke up, I caught up with my parents and soon after headed to dinner with my hiking buddies. Earlier in town, we’d run into Sam/Chef. He was a former AT hiker who worked at a local pub. We went there for dinner, chatted with him some more, and he offered to cover our meals. Thank you Sam! 

I went to sleep feeling very gracious for support I’ve had on this trail. Both from those in my life and from people I’ll likely never see again. I have been shocked by the generosity that has been extended to me  the people in my life and the support I have met so far in Colorado.