The Enchantments Postlude: Lessons Learned
After my epic but tragically short Enchantments hike, I learned some valuable lessons and had many questions answered. I learned a lot about the permit process, gear choices, and how I would approach another trip differently. It’s a beautiful, highly sought after area, so there is tons of information out there about the Enchantments. But, during my research, I didn’t really find the information I really wanted. So I hope this information can help someone else enjoy their trip even more.
Permits
If you read my pre-hike post about the Enchantments, you’ll remember just how intensely competitive permits are. (1% success rate for the core through the spring lottery!) You’ll also remember that I didn’t get permits the “normal” way.
The Trek recently posted on the standard permit process – that’s a great place to start. Basically, there are three ways to get permits for the Enchantments, and a fourth way to experience the area.
- The standard spring lottery that takes place every February/March. The success rate is low, but maybe you’ll be lucky! When you enter the lottery, you’ll need to enter the entry date and number of people you wish to hike with. This makes it different than other lotteries I’ve done in the past. You can apply for up to three start dates in one lottery entry. All unclaimed permits from the lottery process go up for grabs at 7 am Pacific Time on April 15, so you can try your luck then.
- The daily lottery, which is geo-fenced. You have to be within a mile of the Leavenworth ranger station to apply. Anecdotal evidence suggests this is more successful than the regular lottery due to the physical limitations, but that does make it inconvenient.
- My method: Check recreation.gov to look for cancellations, and be flexible about your start date. A friend also had success with this method. She regularly checked recreation.gov until she finally caught a cancellation. This requires vigilance and/or luck, but clearly I had greater success with this method than the regular lottery.
If you aren’t successful in the lottery and are dying to experience the area, you can attempt the Enchantments through-hike. I was originally planning to do this (before I got my permit), and I’m glad I didn’t. I personally would not recommend it unless you are a fast hiker and/or planning to run part of it. My friends completed this in August and of their 16 hour, 20 mile hike, only 4 hours were in the Core Zone. I highly recommend more time in the Core Zone – makes it more worth the high physical price of entry.
Gear Choices
There are some specific gear considerations for the Enchantments that may not be true of other hiking areas.
- Gloves – Due to periodic scrambling both up Aasgard Pass and down the other side, gloves are helpful. I used sun gloves and was grateful for the protection from the rocks and the free fingertips for better grip.
- Extra guylines, stakes, and a tent groundsheet – I always carry guylines. That is especially important here, where weather can be unpredictable and the ground can be hard for stakes. I should have re-learned how to stake out a tent even if I can’t put stakes into the ground. (Learn from my mistakes!) Also, for the greatest flexibility in tent sites, a groundsheet is necessary. One can get by without it, but risk this:
I discovered this 1.5 inch rip in my bathtub floor when I got home. There also was another smaller hole and lots of abrasion. The ground is rocky and I set up quickly due to weather. I normally carefully sweep out rocks/debris from my intended tentsite, but didn’t have the time to do that. No wonder my sleeping pad sprung a leak!
- Sleeping pad protection – If I had brought my 1/4 inch Thinlight pad, my sleeping pad may not have a hole, even with the rip in the tent floor.
- Mosquito protection – I brought my Flextail Tiny Repeller, and it was helpful especially on Aasgard. Surprisingly, once in the core, the mosquitos were fine. On the climb up the pass, they were relentless. (This is seasonal. I went in August.)
- Grippy shoes – An absolute necessity for the descent across wide, granite rock faces. This is not the hike for worn-out, treadless shoes.
If I am able to return for a more traditional Enchantments trip than I got this time, spending multiple nights in the Core, I might also consider a chair. Ultralight blasphemy, I know, but having a comfortable seat for low hiking days helps take in the beautiful views even more.
When I return, I plan to swim in the lakes! I doubt I’d bring swim gear, but a small towel would be a nice luxury item. The alpine lakes are unlike any others I’ve seen.
Other Important Notes
Aasgard Pass
I was most nervous for Aasgard, having never climbed anything that steep before (2000+ feet gained in less than a mile). I took it slow but steady. If you are planning for this trip, I recommend trying to avoid it during the full sun of the mid-day. Morning is best, as that gives ample time to take breaks and find camp at the top. I was glad I had liquid calories on the climb – the only thing that kept me from a full bonk. And I’m glad I stashed my poles – they would have been in the way. Stay to the left of the creek and the large copse of trees in the middle to make sure you aren’t cliffed out.
Descent from Lake Viviane to Snow Lakes
The descent was steep. I had brand new trail-runners, and the grippy tread and well-fitting were essential so my toes didn’t get crushed at the front of my shoes.
Mountain Goats
I’ve seen plenty of mountain goats, having grown up in Colorado. I’ve never seen them this close. They were quite comfortable with humans. In fact, they were too comfortable. The downside of these goats is they are salt-seeking animals. Humans expel a fair amount of salt in our urine. Thus, they associate us (and our urine) with delicious nutrients and will follow humans around, hoping you pee. This definitely happened to me at my campsite.
Rangers ask hikers to always use privies or to pee on hard surfaces to prevent the goats from destroying vegetation as they dig up our discarded salt.
Tentsites
No matter where I go, I am always nervous about finding camp. Thankfully, I can now attest there is ample space to camp within the Enchantments. There is no shortage of spots, and due to the quota limiting the number of backpackers, plenty of options.
However, there were a few that stood out:
- The Snow Creek backcountry area in the upper Core Enchantments. It was like a fairy land, and it even had a privy! If I get the honor to return to the area, I would absolutely camp here.
- My epic, if exposed, campsite between Perfection and Inspiration Lakes. Neverending views.
- The peninsula of Leprechaun Lake – easy lake access, but still a little removed from the trail.
What would I do differently?
There are so many ways to tackle the Enchantments. If I get another chance, I think 4-5 nights is the right amount of time to be able to fully experience the area.
I’d consider staying Night 1 at Colchuck Lake – then I can start a little later in the day, and have fresh legs to tackle Aasgard Pass the next day. Then I would love a night in each Core zone (Upper, Middle, and Lower). Lastly, either a long hike out or a 5th night near Nada Lake for an easier descent.
However, I could be talked into descending via Aasgard Pass. It would be a brutal descent, but it would be over far more quickly than the never-ending descent out to the Snow Lakes trailhead. It also would allow me to park just one car at the Stuart Lake trailhead. I detest steep, rocky descents, and Aasgard would be the ultimate one…but the Snow Lakes descent is something I’d rather never do again.
No matter what, it’s a beautiful area. It’s unlike anything else and I would love another chance to see and experience it. You can truly make the experience your own and have a great time, no matter what. I guess I will have to join the thousands trying their luck at the spring lottery again.
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Comments 4
Hi. I looked at that repeller website, I don’t really understand how it works. It doesn’t mention refills for chemicals or anything. ??
I really enjoyed your photos. It looks quite magical!
The Repeller came with these small (maybe 1″ by 1″) mats that are precoated in D-Allethrin. You can slide 1-2 mats into the top of the repeller, behind the little opening. The repeller then heats up when turned on and that dissipates the chemical. I think it’s a nice boost in an area heavy with mosquitos and has really made a difference for me, but for most situations I’d probably stick with picaridin.
Thanks for this write up! This will be helpful for a future Enchantments hike 🙂
I’m glad it was helpful! May the lottery go well for you!