The first 6 days on the GR5!
The feet are mangled; their shape resembles a tightly wrung towel. Withered, wrinkly and snow-white in spots, they ache. The heel spur on my right foot is crying the saddest song. The ball of my right foot is yelling and complaining about all the extra work it is doing to compensate for the heel spur. The popliteus muscles, behind both my right and left knee, are having an identity crisis. Each thinks it is a golf ball, and if you were to touch behind either of my knees, that’s exactly what you would feel. As well, upon arriving at camp tonight and pulling off my socks, the middle toe on my left foot, in the spirit of Marie Antoinette, perhaps, was decapitated. The nail went flying through the air like it was full of glee to be rid of both me and the GR5.
There’s more.
On July 1st, I arrived in Geneva, the closest major city to the beginning of the GR5. However, my backpack did not. Thankfully, only one day later, it arrived, but was damaged. The chest strap was ripped clean off. I fixed it with a zip tie, however, the strap is now non-adjustable and off-kilter. As a result, my backpack pulls diagonally across my chest and my right collarbone is bruised and tender to the touch.
But the worst malady of all is my mental state. The GR5 is mercilessly kicking my butt. With
40 000 metres (131 234 feet) of ascent over its nearly 700-kilometre length, it is quite a trail to be reckoned with.
Day one, July 3rd:
Just before noon, I headed south from Saint-Gingolph, Switzerland toward my destination of La Chapelle d’Abondance, France, 18 kilometres (12 miles) away, the end of stage one as prescribed by the guide book. The steep road led up and out of the quaint coastal town and quickly rose through lush green forest that meandered beside a bouder-strewn cascade. Soon, the forest gave way to arduously climbing roads that offered views of not-so-distant misty mountains. The climbing continued, passing through tiny little villages and alpine pastures. Late afternoon brought mist, then light rain, then a downpour. After taking refuge in a little countryside cabin, identified by a cross on the door and left unlocked for any passers-by in need of shelter, I put on my rain gear and continued the enchanting but challenging uphill hike. However, the 1 870 meters (6135 feet) of ascent along with the rain pelting down all afternoon resulted in my only completing 12 of the 18 kilometres…and that took me 6-1/2 hours!
Day 2, July 4th
With the sun shining the next morning, I was eager to make up the six kilometres from the previous day’s stage plus the 21 prescribed for stage two. The immediate steep climb up the mountain brought sweeping views of the vast valley below. Passing interesting chimney-like rock formations and scampering chamois, the day was off to a story-book start. At a summit, I was greeted with a gasp-worthy gaze of a majestic mountainscape. La Chapelle d’Abondance is a picturesque village that thrives as a popular ski spot in the winter and is equipped with all the regular tourist-catering amenities. At the boulangerie, I bought a locally-made dried sausage crafted with girolle mushrooms, a chèvre sandwich and a pizza square. At the hotel bar, L’Ensoleillé, I enjoyed un petit café while eating the pizza and filling out postcards. Then I was back on the trail, passing an impressive waterfall in the forest, climbing gruelling slopes with intermittent detours from the forest which imparted rewarding views of both the limitless lowlands and the plentiful verdant peaks all around. The hard work of hiking was thankfully outweighed by the beauty and serenity of the French Alps. The day rolled on, with patches of snow here and cows grazing there. And, of course, there was the never-ending ascent. Done for the day, I stopped at the refuge/restaurant La Haute Bise. There, I pitched my tent behind the building, then went inside the wood-oven-warmed restaurant for a glass of wine and to write more postcards. Up to this point, I had hiked 33 kilometres with 3 365 metres (11 040 feet) of ascent and 1 770 (5 807 feet) metres of descent. I may have stopped six kilometres before the prescribed stage, but the sunset over the mountain ridge line was spectacular!
Day 3, July 5th
Needing to make up the six kilometres from yesterday’s stage as well as to accomplis the 25 kilometres for today’s stage, I knew it would be a long day. But the sun was shining, the birds were chirping, and les marmottes were blasting their rhythmic piercing chirps across the valley; all of nature was cheering for me! The day began with a very gentle incline, passing beneath ski lifts and offering up more of those jaw-dropping views of vast valleys and majestic mountain ranges with both grassy peaks and snow-capped ones. At a refuge in front of Lac Vert, I stopped for a large glass of orange juice. Directly after, the climb past the lake was steep and punishing…thank goodness for the gratifying vista of the lake and glen below! At the summit of the uphill hike…wow. Just wow! There lay a stupefying spectacle of the mountains Les Dents Blanches and Les Dents du Midi in Switzerland. However, the path was not very well marked in this section of the GR5 that meandered onto the Swiss side of the Alps. Thankfully, passersby helped me find my way! Passing grazing sheep and cows, the sun beat relentlessly. Then, the path wound up along a steep shale rock path, surrounded and bordered by the pretty, deep pink alpenroses. At the summit, it was fun to skip back-and-forth across stone monuments marking the Franco-Swiss border. After this, the long, difficult descent began. Massive and majestic mountains overseeing deep valleys were the views, the depth and breadth of which are difficult to understand when in plain sight and even more difficult to capture in words. My favourite moment here was Les Terres Maudites, a captivating convex cliffside, uniquely smooth and round. At this I stopped and simply stared for many minutes! Finally, the steeply declining path heads back into tree cover, then again cutting through alps all around and vast vales with the odd farm here and there. And the flowers! They are as diverse and colourful as they are pretty. On and on, the descent went. Despite my utter fatigue and weary feet, my inability to find a suitable camp spot meant that i carried on and eventually completed the entire 31 kilometres I had hoped to. In the small town of Samoëns, I asked a lady I happened to pass by if I could pitch my tent in her backyard. She said yes, but invited me to stay in her spare bedroom instead. Hallelujah!
Day 4, July 6th
In the morning, I knew that my body had not sufficiently recovered from the 31 kilometres and gruelling descent of the day before. It was a tough decision to make so early into the trek, but I asked my host, Sylvie, if she would mind if I stayed another day to rest. “Bien sûr,” she responded. Bless her. For the entire day, I stayed in bed with my legs elevated, dozing in and out of sleep as the rain poured down outside. The ceaseless storm confirmed that it was a good day to spend indoors, recovering. But, the fact that I needed to take a day off already, after only three days of hiking, alarmed me. Along the GR10 last summer, I hiked for 43 days straight without need of a single rest day. And now, here I was on the GR5, battered and convalescing after only three days of hiking! Up to this point, I had hiked 4035 metres (13 238 feet) of ascent, 3710 metres (12 172 feet) of descent and 64 kilometres (40 miles).
Day 5, July 7th
Waking up after my zero day, I knew I had made the right decision. My body felt fantastic and I was bursting with energy and enthusiasm to get back on the trail. The day began with a very flat walk along the Clévieux Torrent under grey and misty skies. The hike through the Gorges des Tines was very cool, climbing ladders to get up and out. Passing the dramatic Cascade du Rouget was another highlight. Mountains, valleys, forests, waterfalls, steep climbs and breathtaking vistas had all already become the norm of each day. The guide book says that the GR5 is one of the most spectacular hiking trails in the world. Now I understood why! It’s like there is never a break from the beauty. It’s non-stop, and I have already taken a million photos. Soon the clouds came rolling in and visibility was minimal. Up, up and more up, I hiked. After trudging across snow and upon reaching a summit, the clouds briefly opened up and I was able to glimpse the magnificent basin before me and Lac d’Anterne. Beyond this, there was my first “boots off” water crossing. The current was strong and the water was achingly icy! But the cold shock is always good therapy for the poor feet. After the water crossing, the heavy fog and substantial snow cover meant I could not see where the trail continued. Then Ike appeared! I had met Ike during my rest day in Samoëns. Together, we found our way and hiked to the Refuge de Moëde Anterne, behind which we camped along with Pauline, Henri and JB, other GR5 hikers.
Day 6, July 8th
Even though I hiked 23 kilometres (14 miles) and climbed 1 800 metres (5 905 feet) yesterday, I woke up ready for more! At the refuge, I ran into Mathieu, whom I had met back on my first day at Les Chalets de Bise. Mathieu and I walked together and soon caught up with Ike and JB. The four of us traversed a precarious section through snow and another part steep enough that it was equipped with ladders. I was thankful to have company through this intense passage! At Col du Brévent, we were met with a jaw-dropping view of Mont Blanc (the highest peak in all of Europe at 4 807 metres or 15 771 feet) and a spectacular mountain range including Aiguille du Midi, Mont Blanc du Tacul, Mont Maudit, Dome du Gouter, and others. An absolutely astonishing sight! A little further up, we reached Le Brévent, at an altitude of 2 525 metres (8 284 feet). Because this spot is reachable by chairlift, there were hoards of people, and we didn’t stay long. From here, the great descent began! This descent was not only steep but technical, certainly the most trying and challenging chunk of the GR5 thus far. Thank goodness for that magnificent view of Mont Blanc all the while! Mathieu finished his day at Refuge de Bellachat, However, after sharing a brief bière with him, I carried on, intent in reaching my destination, the end of stage six, Les Houches. Shortly before Les Houches, I came across a small trailside patch of grass that was not quite flat but was in perfectly plain view of the awesome and commanding Mont Blanc. It wasn’t even a question. I got off the trail and set up my tent there for the night. I’m not religious or anything, but glory be and hallelujah! It doesn’t get any better than this.
And, by the next morning, those mangled feet, the heel pain, the sunburnt skin, the bruised collarbone, the protruding popliteus muscles and all the other aches and maladies were all healed. Discouragement and intimidation were transformed into energy and enthusiasm! The human body and psyche are as marvellous and wondrous as Mont Blanc is before me.
Yes, the work is hard and the GR5 is tougher than I thought it would be. But, I’ve made it this far, and I am bursting with motivation to carry on. The days are long and challenging, but behold the site before me! The GR5 is formidable, but so am I! I’m giving it my all, and I’m getting as much in return! Day in and day out, it is difficult, beautiful work. And you know what?
I’m happy!
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Comments 2
Inspiring account, and love the Hobbit feet! Very fitting 🙂
Hi, Jen! Thank you reading and commenting! Also, just so you know… There are videos for every day of this hike there. Feel free to check out my YouTube channel: Woman in the Woods 13. And don’t be shy to subscribe! 🙂