The Northern New Mexico Loop: The Epic 523-Mile Thru-Hike You’ve Probably Never Heard Of

The Northern New Mexico Loop (NNML) is a 523-mile route created by Brett Tucker. It circumnavigates the northern part of New Mexico. The loop takes 3-4 weeks to complete and takes hikers through high desert pine forests and mountains over 10,000 feet in elevation, through deep canyons and arid farmland, and over stunning mesas, showcasing a wide variety of everything northern New Mexico has to offer.

It is a route best for those with previous thru-hiking, cross-country, and navigation experience who are used to solitude and looking for a challenging adventure.

Northern New Mexico Loop At a Glance

  • Length: 523 miles
  • Expected Completion Time: 3-4 weeks (averaging 20 miles per day)
  • Location: Northern New Mexico
  • Best season(s) to hike: Spring or fall
  • Trail Type: Loop

Scenery

The Northern New Mexico Loop offers a wide array of scenery and might not be what you expect when you think of New Mexico. The majority of the loop has hikers walking through high desert terrain. Think pine trees, high-elevation exposed mountaintops (often over 10,000 feet in elevation), and rocky terrain. Northern New Mexico is basically an extension of Colorado.

The trail also offers the chance to walk through lush canyons and atop high, flat mesas. Hikers will also spend time walking through arid desert where the only things around are cacti and cows. Since the trail does pass right through quite a few towns, you’ll also get a chance to see how locals live in New Mexico.

Terrain

While the Northern New Mexico Loop mostly follows established trails, it also utilizes some dirt and paved roads and requires occasional cross-country travel. Since this is actually a route that links multiple avenues of travel together, there are no trail markings. Here is a breakdown of the terrain:

  • Trails: 345 mi (66%)
  • Dirt roads: 128 mi (24%)
  • Cross-country: 25 mi (5%)
  • Paved roads: 25 mi (5%)

Much of the route is on decent single track, although some sections can be quite steep and rocky at times, often gaining and losing elevation quickly. Some of the trail sections have also not seen much maintenance in recent years or after wildfires and might require more navigating than expected. The tread improves considerably when you reach the section that coincides with the Continental Divide Trail.

The dirt road sections are a combination of two-tracks and car roads, and the paved sections are usually heading into or out of towns and are fairly short.

The cross-country sections do require navigation, either with a map and compass or a GPS. Having Brett Tucker’s GPS tracks downloaded on my phone was a huge help in these sections. Some were on exposed mountaintops that had cairns leading hikers in multiple directions, and others were in parts of the desert without any landmarks to use for orientation. Having experience with cross-country hiking is definitely recommended for this thru-hike.

The NNML winds through multiple canyons and crosses rivers, so prepare to get wet. Having water crossing experience is recommended.

Navigation

The Northern New Mexico Loop is a route created by Brett Tucker, a long-distance backpacker and route creator. It is definitely a route for the experienced backpacker, as it often involves hard terrain, steep climbs, and navigation.

Brett provides a downloadable resource bundle for $40 that includes GPS maps with tracks, waypoints, and alternative routes that load in Gaia, Avenza, and Google Maps. The bundle also includes a water chart, data book, town guide, and more. This bundle is definitely the best way to navigate the NNML and is most likely necessary to do so.

The bundle also includes printable PDF maps, but having the GPS tracks loaded on your phone will make life way easier, especially in the cross-country sections. Brett does an excellent job at detailing waypoints and water sources. Navigation proved fairly easy with his downloaded maps.

How To Get to the Northern New Mexico Loop

Being that this trail is a loop, you could technically start this trail at any point along the loop. However, the creator of the NNML loop recommends starting in Santa Fe. Santa Fe is probably one of the most accessible points on the route: it has a regional airport and is only a 1-2 hour trip from Albuquerque, which has an international airport. Regular bus and train service makes getting between the two cities easy. Santa Fe has a plethora of hotels, food, shopping, and an REI. Starting in Santa Fe will also allow both spring and fall hikers to hit the high mountains at the best time for the season.

The Northern New Mexico Loop walks right through the heart of downtown Santa Fe, making it an easy way to start and end a thru-hike. Santa Fe is also the capital of New Mexico and has a rich history, many historic Catholic churches to visit, a vibrant downtown, and a great art and food scene. It is the ending point of the historic Santa Fe Trail, a historic trade route that started in Missouri and ended in Santa Fe.

I drove to Santa Fe and then found this storage facility that is a couple minutes’ walk from the NNML that let me park my car there for around $100 for one month.

Best Direction To Hike the Northern New Mexico Loop

Assuming one starts in Santa Fe as recommended, this trail is best hiked in a clockwise direction in the spring and a counterclockwise direction in the fall. The mountains to the northeast of Santa Fe will be the highest elevation mountains that a hiker will pass through. Hiking clockwise will allow spring hikers to hit these mountains at the end of their journey, when the snow has hopefully melted, while counterclockwise allows fall hikers to hit the high peaks early, before the winter snow sets in.

Why Hike the Northern New Mexico Loop

If you have never been to northern New Mexico, you are definitely missing out on some of the prettiest and most diverse landscapes in the States.

Utah and Colorado get all the fame, but this gem of a state is the high desert’s best-kept secret. Northern New Mexico is very similar to Colorado with its high-elevation peaks and pine forests but without all the crowds. Deep, lush canyons and high arid mesas with views that rival those in Utah, that you will most likely have all to yourself at night. In spring, wildflowers are in full bloom, and in fall, the aspens are downright magical.

Highlights of the Northern New Mexico Loop

New Mexico

While New Mexico isn’t high on most people’s tourist destinations, this state might just be the country’s best-kept secret. The lack of crowds and tourists, all the diversity of wildlife and scenery, the state’s history, and, surprisingly, some pretty incredible canyons make this route a worthwhile endeavor.

Solitude

If you are seeking a place to get away from the hustle and bustle of life and find some peace in the mountains, this route will be right up your alley. You will spend most days seeing more deer and cows than humans and have some of the most incredible landscapes and camp spots all to yourself or just to share with a few others.

Hotsprings

The NNML will take hikers right by two free hot springs. The San Antonio Hot Springs are in the southwestern portion of the loop, and the Black Rock Hot Springs are in the northern section. Both are a great way to start or end a hard day in the desert.

Elk

If you happen to be hiking in the fall, you will walk through northern New Mexico during peak elk rut season. There is nothing more mesmerizing than waking up and falling asleep every day to the beautiful sound of elk bugling.

CDT

The NNML coincides with the Continental Divide Trail for a portion of its length, and this will either be nostalgic for those who have already hiked the CDT or will give future CDT hikers a taste of the Continental Divide Trail. The trail also greatly improves along the CDT, which is a welcome reprieve from the tougher terrain elsewhere on the loop. And with the NNML being such a solitary experience, there is nothing like hanging out with a bunch of fellow thru-hikers to boost your morale and bring a little excitement to your hike.

Rio Grande

While hiking the NNML, you will cross the Rio Grande River twice. The northern crossing is usually fairly tame, but the southern crossing can be a whole experience in itself, depending on when you happen to hit it. While this crossing is not to be taken lightly (and sometimes cannot be crossed safely), it has the possibility to be one of the most exciting parts of this thru-hike.

After dropping 1000 feet almost straight down into a canyon and bushwhacking through thick viney vegetation, you will have the chance to either wade, swim, or float across the muddy but iconic Rio Grande. At its best, the water will be fordable. More than likely, you might have to swim a small portion of the river, and some even opt to bring a pack raft with them to float across.

As with all desert canyons, the water levels and speed of the current can change very quickly depending on precipitation levels. The river can become very dangerous due to its current, depth, and floating debris, so planning ahead is definitely a necessity. I definitely recommend that you check this USGS stream gage to see current conditions and plan ahead for upcoming weather.

Spring season will normally see higher water levels due to snow runoff, but fall can also pose challenges during and after monsoon season. If the river is too dangerous to cross, you must backtrack and then utilize road walking or buses to get around this crossing, which the downloadable map bundle explains how to do.

Climate and Weather: The Best Time of Year To Hike the Northern New Mexico Loop

The NNML is best hiked in spring or fall. Winter is too dangerous due to the snow, and summer would be miserably hot.

Spring will most likely bring wetter conditions, but with them, a plethora of wildflowers. Spring hikers will most likely have better water sources, but also will risk hiking in the snow, depending on the previous winter’s snow accumulation.

Fall hiking will most likely involve drier conditions, and water sources might be less available. You’ll want to try to avoid monsoon season, which is usually late summer/early fall, but at the same time, you can’t start too late in the fall, or you’ll likely run into early winter snowfall. September is typically a good month to target, but I recommend that you stay flexible with your hiking dates depending on the weather. Fall hiking will also provide a chance to see elk in their rutting season and the aspens turning yellow.

Gear Suggestions

Typical thru-hiking gear works for the Northern New Mexico Loop. You should bring a three-season tent, sleeping pad, and adequate sleeping bag or quilt (10 – 30 degrees, depending on your preference).

If you are hiking in early spring after a high snow year, microspikes (and possibly an ice ax) might be worth bringing. Shorts and a t-shirt will be adequate for hiking most days, although you should be prepared for cold weather — and definitely for cold nights. I recommend bringing a rain jacket, beanie, gloves, and a puffy, along with a baselayer for sleeping. Parts of the trail are very exposed, so definitely make sure you have sun protection.

If hiking during the fall, you will most likely encounter many elk hunters. While not unsafe to hike during this season, you should have bright-colored clothing to boost your visibility.

Part of the trail does involve off-trail hiking and since it is the desert, the ground can be a bit thorny. Gaiters would be helpful to avoid being poked in the ankles.

As mentioned above, floating across the Rio Grande’s Southern crossing is possible and might be the only safe way to cross depending on when you hit it, so mailing yourself or bringing a pack raft for that crossing is an option.

If you end up hiking during monsoon season, be prepared for intense rain and plan your rain gear accordingly. An emergency SOS device is also advisable due to the possibility of flash flooding in the canyons, although common sense and avoiding these canyons during dangerous times is still the best option.

Camping

While the Northern New Mexico Loop does not have a lot of established camping, camping does not pose much of an issue for hikers along most of the route since New Mexico is a less frequented backpacking destination than other states. In fact, most nights you will probably have your pick of a number of beautiful campsites. The only time that hikers need to be aware of potential camp spots is on the road walks into and out of towns, as the majority of this land is private property.

Due to the potential for flash flooding in the desert, hikers need to be diligent about keeping tabs on the weather if camping in canyons. Rivers and creeks can drastically change height very quickly with even a small amount of precipitation. Some sections of the trail are also very exposed either while hiking above treeline or in cow land, so having a tent instead of a hammock is definitely recommended.

While the desert can be quite hot during the day (even in the spring and fall), temperatures usually drop quite drastically right when the sun goes down. You’ll want a warm sleeping bag. And since this is the desert, make sure you inspect the ground for tiny cacti before setting up.

Water Sources

While the water carries are never that long on the NNML, there are a few sections in which you’ll need to be more aware of the distance between water sources, especially depending on the year, and be prepared to load up on water if the weather is hot. The best source for info is the Northern New Mexico Mapset and Resource Bundle mentioned above, which you can purchase from the route creator. It includes very detailed water information that proved to be very accurate, providing a ranking system for water sources based on their reliability.

While a lot of the trail has great water sources coming from natural lakes, streams, and creeks, portions of the trail rely on cow troughs, which luckily aren’t as disgusting as you might imagine.

Some creeks in the southern portion can also be quite silty, so prefiltering water at these sources might be advisable. Getting water from the Rio Grande, a major river with plenty of agricultural runoff flowing into it, is best avoided, especially at the southern crossing.

Resupply Options

Taos is a full-service town directly off the NNML. A free bus service runs from the trail throughout town Monday through Friday. If arriving on the weekend, the outskirts of Taos are just a short walk from the trail and provide access to restaurants, hotels, and grocery shopping.

San Cristobal is a tiny community that you walk right through. The only resource here for hikers is a post office.

Red River is a full-service tourist town with restaurants, hotels, and grocery stores that you will walk right through on the trail.

Questa is a full-service tourist town with hotels, restaurants, and grocery shopping. You will walk right through town on the trail.

Chama is not technically on the NNML, but it’s still a good resupply point to break up an otherwise very long food carry. It is a full-service town that is also a resupply point for CDT hikers. Getting there does require NNML hikers to trek 17 miles off-loop and then hitchhike. But the charm of Chama and the prospect of real food is enough to make those easy 17 miles worth it for most thru-hikers.

Ghost Ranch is an art retreat and resort with a small store that offers limited snacks. Although the public must pay a fee to access hiking and exhibits at the retreat, the NNML passes straight through the property, and Ghost Ranch allows thru-hikers to walk through for free. They also allow hikers to send a box.

While there is a restaurant on-site, it is only open for guests who are staying the night. If you don’t want to send a box to Ghost Ranch, you can hitch or bus (weekdays only) 15 miles east to the small town of Abiquiu, which has a grocery store, cafe, and food truck, or hitch or bus farther to the full-service towns of Española, Chama, or Santa Fe.

La Cueva is a small town that you walk through with a hotel and a small general store that it is possible to resupply from if you’re not picky. You might be able to send a box to the lodge or store, but there have been reports in the past of them being returned.

Bandelier National Monument is not directly on the NNML, but it is a short detour down into a very cool canyon and national monument that has a cafe with limited snacks.

Closing Thoughts

The Northern New Mexico Loop is a 523-mile route creation that showcases the diversity of northern New Mexico. It traverses exposed alpine mountaintops, deep and lush canyons, and arid desert.

It is a route best suited to those with previous thru-hiking and cross-country/navigation experience. It is solitary in nature, although it does pass through multiple towns and coincides with the CDT for a while. The route will give hikers a chance to see a plethora of flora and fauna and experience all the beauties and secrets of New Mexico’s high desert.

Featured image: Photo via Jenn Wall; graphic design by Zack Goldmann.

Affiliate Disclosure

This website contains affiliate links, which means The Trek may receive a percentage of any product or service you purchase using the links in the articles or advertisements. The buyer pays the same price as they would otherwise, and your purchase helps to support The Trek's ongoing goal to serve you quality backpacking advice and information. Thanks for your support!

To learn more, please visit the About This Site page.

Comments 2

  • Gregory W Kesselring : Jan 21st

    great article. I had not heard about this loop, so thank you for the article and overview. I love New Mexico, may have to hike this, or at least sections of it.

    Reply
  • Stephen Verchinski : Jan 24th

    Nice to have others appreciate where I live. New Mexico has a lot to offer a hiker . New Mexico Volunteers For the Outdoors helps the land management services and agencies get trail tread updated but it’s a huge state so be prepared for good and bad tracks.

    With the New Mexico Railrunner train a ticket also gets a transfer ticket to our Blue Bus service for our rural areas. That makes section hiking relatively easy for west central and northern New Mexico.

    Parts of this described trail will also someday be included in the State of New Mexico’s Parks system work finalizing the Rio Grande Trail which I call our Camino Milagro de La Luz. It will be going on a mix of routes from El Paso/Mexico/New Mexico border to Colorado and even has that southern boundary marker reminiscent of other trails located by the American dam. (San Elizario however is my choice to start as it was where Spain’s explorer and conquest Juan de Oñate read La Toma, making the claim for Spain. He crossed the Rio Grande at El Paso. As it continues north it passes by towns and museums on the old Camino Real that came up from Mexico City) On the northern end you today still can make diversions and time it to do the Good Friday walk with pilgrims to Chimayo or instead of just ending at the border with Colorado, push to the historic town of San Luis for with a religious bent or go westward into Colorado on a mix of roads and trails to the spectacular high country and source of the Rio Grande in Colorado not far from Silverton.

    Reply

What Do You Think?