Loving the Colorado Trail

It almost felt unreal, sort of an out-of-body experience, as I finally stepped foot on the Colorado trail, after two years of dreaming and hoping and planning.  With my ever faithful companion of many years at my side, off we went!  Shortimer would be on the trail four days, as is his norm each time I start a new trek. As for me, my detailed itinerary (that’s just how I do these things, folks), has me on the trail for 45 more days after his departure.  My goals are to arrive at the end uninjured and having experienced and appreciated the most that I can from the trail and from the trail towns along the way.

We felt as prepared as we possibly could be, after training for months at home and spending three days at 9600+ feet in the town of Breckenridge, acclimating to the altitude with short hikes and a bike ride by Shortimer, sorta keeping up his triathlon training.

On a training hike on the Colorado Trail as it passes near Breckenridge.

There weren’t as many walkers or bikers on the smooth dirt road in Waterton Canyon as I expected. This is a private road leading to a dam that serves the city of Denver, so only water treatment vehicles are allowed there. However, it’s a recreational area enjoyed by many, especially mountain bikers.  July and August are the usual months that hopeful thru-hikers begin their trek southbound (SOBO) from Littleton’s Waterton Canyon through eight mountain ranges in the Colorado Rockies to the city of Durango in the southwest corner of the state.

After stopping at the Mile 1 Marker for a celebratory photo, we didn’t realize until several miles later that I had lost my InReach Mini satellite communicator somewhere along the way.

After several training sessions for me with Bill on this device, it was very disappointing to lose it.  A screw had obviously come loose from the fastener on my backpack. So my sure-to-be intermittent cell service would have to do for communication and emergency backup.

Onward we continued. We had begun around 10 am, so things were already warming up as we went further and further into the canyon, with the South Platte River on the left for the most part and tall rocky outcroppings to to the right.

Around mile two, more often than not, mountain sheep  are seen close up on the cliffs as they come down to partake of the water in the river.

We had the great fortune of seeing several groups of these, including precious little babies, who amazed us as they skipped over and up the rocks. They didn’t seem frightened of the humans passing by at all, since they were used to recreational runners and bikers on the road every day.

After 6 1/2 miles, we finally left the gradual incline of the dirt road to get on a real true Colorado mountain trail. It felt great to be surrounded by evergreens again. What a joy to see that recent rains had brought the wildflowers out.

 

Within a couple of miles, as planned, we came to an area by Bear Creek, where we wanted to set up our tents for the night.  The first night of camping on one of these treks is always so fun.

We were careful to secure well Bill’s bear-and critter proof Ursack and my metal bear canister. This creek wasn’t named Bear Creek on a whim.

We had the fun of meeting another backpacker, Trevor, that night, as he searched for a good tent spot.  As often happens on the trail, we got to spend time with him the next night too.  I love sharing tales of trails with other members of the hiking community.

We turned in for a good night’s sleep by 8 pm.  I was grateful for having Bill’s good natured company, the good weather  and for my sometimes onery right knee behaving perfectly all day.  The Knees Over Toes exercises at home (thank you, Deborah, for those!) and KT tape and a small brace securing the knee were working so far. I put the lost Garmin out of my mind.  The way I figured it, my pack was now 6 ounces lighter.

Day 2 was still in the single digits in distance, per my plan for a gradual buildup.  It was basically a day going up one long uphill and then down to the South Platte River again.

Some good views began to pop out, as well as many more beautiful wildflowers.

 

 


We hiked our last mile faster as we were hearing thunder approaching from a distance, a common summer afternoon occurrence in the Rockies. We sailed down to the South Platte River, where we found last nights’ new friend already protected in his tent as the drops began to fall. My new Durston tent proved itself to be speedy in set up, and we both dove into our respective tents as the rain came down.

Happily, it was brief and we were able to crawl out and head to the river for collecting and filtering water and enjoy cooling off.

We later enjoying cards with Trevor at our campsite, where two others had joined us.  He taught us a new way of playing rummy and he slaughtered us. We then taught him a game called Oh Blast and he yet again slaughtered us. Quick learner, blast him!


Everyone was up much earlier the next morning, leaving before 7 AM, in order to get through the next section. This was an area where the Buffalo Creek forest fire had swept through several years ago, and was still recovering. We knew the sun would be beating down on us if we didn’t get there to hike in the morning shadow on the hill.

The first five miles were uphill, and the next 8 were somewhat level with easier ups and downs.

Most of the CT serves both fearless and amazingly strong mountain bikers and the much slower backpackers. We appreciate it when the bikers ring their bells or call out that they’re approaching.

I was surprised by the fragile beauty of this section, with the colorful  wildflowers against the fallen logs.

The middle section of today’s section was tree covered, a nice break as the temperatures again were in the 90’s, but a breeze in the open spaces made it comfortable.

 

We each carried 3 liters of water (heavy!  6.6 pounds) this day because of no streams along the way.  Our first resupply was at mile 10, where the volunteer fire department makes their outdoor faucet, a bench and shade available to hikers.  Very appreciated!  Again, we got to chat with fellow members of the backpacking community as we enjoyed our lunch break in the shade.

We were now back in the forest, away from the burnt area.

After three more miles, we finally came to a nice little shaded nook by a dry stream where we decided it was time to call it a day.

We had brought enough spare water to “dry camp” for the night.  It takes nearly half a liter to rehydrate each meal, so we need a lot for the next day’s breakfast, drinking, brushing teeth, etc.


Above:  my beloved oatmeal mixture. Not much to look at but delicious and empowering!

Our dinners had already been cold soaking in their jars in our backpacks during the afternoon’s walk. we have both really enjoying these, now that I have a wide variety of recipes that I cook and dehydrate at home.

They are of course always whole food plant-based with no added salt, oil, or sugar. However, I am prepared to take in a bit of salt in the afternoons to maintain my electrolytes if needed.  However, I presently find that a steady stream of my snacks (dried fruit, veggie/chickpea trail mix, oatmeal/fruit/veggie cookies, fruit leather) are suiting all my needs.  I never feel faint and recover quickly in camp.  So far.

As I sat on a log near the trail, watching mountain bikers, runners and hikers occasion go by, a fellow came around the bend who looked familiar to me. He stopped and said “I know you!” It turned out, we had hiked together a bit and camped with a group one night on the Florida Trail in January. And now our paths were crossing again. This seems to happen more often than not on the trail.

I was asleep by 7:30.

Our final day hiking together, Day 4, had arrived.  Bill was ready to head home, especially since he has national championships for triathlon in just one week.  His training this week has certainly been unique!  As for me, I’ve been so pleased by my knee, and the Colorado trail that I look forward to 45 more days of doing this.

This was a very big uphill day, with some somewhat steep sections sprinkled throughout.  I love it that we’re now walking through more groves of aspen, my favorite tree

And along the way, it was business as usual on the trail:  collecting and filtering water,

…and taking breaks and lunch (Bill’s:  almond butter of whole wheat tortillas, and mine:  often mixed veggies, quinoa, cooked dark leafy greens, lentils, hummus).

At day’s end, we were picked up by a shuttle from the Two Bridges Hostel in nearby Bailey and delivered to their lovely lodge that also has a large room for four hikers and outdoor tenting space.

I was sad to see Bill leave for Denver and then for home the next day, but the time had come.  A prearranged “trail angel” who helps hikers arrived to take him to the Denver hostel we had stayed in four nights ago.  Bill has  been a great companion.  And now he would once again be sending my packages of dehydrated meals and snacks from home to my future locations for zero days.  Talk about support!

My zero day today has been very relaxing, enjoying conversations and joking around with the other hikers in the hostel, my own private yoga by the river the inn is situated by and riding a loaner bike into what there is of a town to get some baked potatoes and canned beans.  Two fellow hikers insisted on taking a photo of Ruthless at the  Cutthroat Cafe.  I’ve been so happy to discover that the trail culture and community is alive and well on the Colorado Trail

I now wrap up my afternoon by saying thank you for reading my account of this great beginning of a great adventure.

And by the way, that lost Garmin was found before  mile one in Watertown Canyon by a very kind woman who was walking there.  Going beyond the call of duty, her husband drove  it 45 minutes up to this inn to leave it for me.  With my Garmin back and my knee playing nice, I feel like I’ve got all my ducks in a row right now.  We shall see how this all plays out. Off I go tomorrow morning!  I hope I don’t meet any crazies on the trail like these folks!

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Comments 22

  • Barbara A Scott : Aug 1st

    As always, another great post! The hostel looks like it is in an ideal setting.
    I especially liked the pictures of the fast moving water!
    Have a wonderful time in our beloved mountains.

    Reply
    • Ruth Morley : Aug 6th

      Of course you like the photo of fast moving water in one of Colorado’s many streams! It’s in your blood, having been born in this state.

      Reply
  • DMFINO : Aug 1st

    I look forward to reading your posts and following your hike again!!!

    Reply
    • Ruth Morley : Aug 6th

      I appreciate your interest in my journeys. Thank you!

      Reply
  • Elise : Aug 1st

    Hi Ruth! Another great post! I love following along. Have a great hike!

    Reply
    • Ruth Morley : Aug 6th

      Thank you for following me.

      Reply
  • Terrie Walker : Aug 1st

    My daughter lives in Breckenridge and is an AT – twice, PCT and CDT thru hiker. She loves to help thru-hikers coming thru Breck. If you would like to get in touch with her or need a place to stay let me know and I’ll pass along her information. Happy Trails!!

    Reply
    • Terrie Walker : Aug 1st

      Oh and did I mention she is vegetarian and has also done all her hikes Vegan/vegetarian. She would love to make you a home-cooked meal 🙂

      Reply
    • Ruth Morley : Aug 6th

      Oops! I apologize for not seeing your comment and contacting you. I’m now in Breckenridge and tomorrow too, but then I move on and hike over that big mountain between Breckenridge and Copper Mountain Slow and steady baby steps always get me to the top. And a steady stream every 15-30 minutes of some of my heslthy snack foods!

      Reply
  • Lori McCrossin : Aug 1st

    Once again I have the thrill of experiencing another inspiring hiking adventure through your blog. I can’t wait to read more as you go.
    My husband and I are returning to the states in September after almost a year in Israel helping my daughter with her newborn twins. Unfortunately, we didnt get much hiking in this.
    Busy grandparents now.
    Keep on WFPB hiking!!! ✌️
    We will be joining the community soon!

    Reply
    • Ruth Morley : Aug 6th

      I’m sure you’re looking forward to resuming hiking in the US, but what a privilege to experience living overseas. We had 18 exciting years in Japan , Venezuela and France. That changed our lives.

      Reply
  • Lori McCrossin : Aug 1st

    Once again I have the thrill of experiencing another inspiring hiking adventure through your blog. I can’t wait to read more as you go. I love the community of hikers on the trail, and the support the community gives to eachother.
    My husband and I are returning to the states in September after almost a year in Israel helping my daughter with her newborn twins.
    Unfortunately, we didnt get much hiking in this.
    Busy grandparenting now.
    Keep on WFPB hiking!!! ✌️
    We will be joining the community soon!

    Reply
    • Ruth Morley : Aug 6th

      I’m sure you’re looking forward to resuming hiking in the US, but what a privilege to experience living overseas. We had 18 exciting years in Japan , Venezuela and France. That changed our lives.

      Reply
  • Jon : Aug 1st

    Great post and I’m glad that Garmin turned up!

    Reply
    • Ruth Morley : Aug 6th

      Yes, it’s now secure in the bottom of my exterior back
      pocket of my backpack. The only things I let dangle are my poop trowel, my pocket knife and my emergency whistle.

      Reply
  • Lori : Aug 1st

    YAY! I’ve been looking forward to following your journey. Very interested in the WFPB aspect and SOS free. Stay safe out there!

    Reply
    • Ruth Morley : Aug 6th

      Thanks for joining me.

      Reply
  • Shocktop : Aug 2nd

    Solid start, Ruthless! Thank you for the cute goat pics too. Happy Trails!

    Reply
    • Ruth Morley : Aug 6th

      Hi Shocktop! It was a great beginning. I love having my husband with me for these early days. Now I’m getting to higher elevations and am not appreciating the temps going into the 30’s overnight. I just ordered a thin foam pad to help my inflatable insulated air mattress be more effective. The backpack is getting fuller….

      Reply
  • Julia Kinlaw : Aug 2nd

    Saw your hubby yesterday–So glad the garmin found you–and we will be waiting for every update of your adventure.

    Reply
    • Ruth Morley : Aug 6th

      Thank you, Julia, for you continued support. You are always such a positive person.

      Reply
  • Ruth : Nov 17th

    I think it is tradition to lose something in Waterton Canyon. My husband, who joined me for the first 3 days of my 2022 CT attempt, lost his AirPods within the first two miles. Alas, it was July 4 and extremely crowded that day, and we never did find them. I left my sit pad at mile 4, too!

    Reply

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