NC/TN: The Smokies, An Honest Review

Davenport Gap, Northern End of Great Smoky Mountain National Park, Mile 239.2

8 days in the Smokies. Most visited National Park in the US. Fontana Dam to Standing Bear: 72 miles, 18,000 feet up, 18,000 feet down. Highest point on the entirety of the trail. One of the most renowned sections of the AT. Here are the highs and lows, as I experienced them:

 The Views

My first few days in the Smokies, it rained every day. The renowned views from 5,000+ feet were overcast as I walked through the clouds. The fog accentuated a stunning section of spruce trees, moss, and rocks from Silers Bald Shelter to Mt. Collins Shelter. It was like a storybook wonderland. Due to the high elevation, I also experienced rain, snow, and heavy winds. The weather got so intense that rangers were encouraging hikers to leave the trail. At the perfect time, my family drove from Indiana to meet my crew at Clingmans Dome. We took a few zero days off in Gatlinburg, and I enjoyed the park from lower, sunnier altitudes with my family. My grammy- whose dream it was to hike the Appalachian Trail years ago- even hiked a bit of the trail with us. 

By the time we got back on trail, the weather was absolutely beautiful. As a result, we were treated to a clear view from Clingmans Dome: the highest point on the Appalachian Trail at 6,643ft tall! Though quite a busy spot, this 360° view highlighted the expansiveness of the Smoky Mountain range. 

My favorite view of the Smokies was without question Charlie’s Bunion. The rocky overlook juts out over a valley with mountains rising to the left and right. A friend and I had hiked out to see it just over a year ago. The view left me breathless. This time, I camped at a shelter only a mile away, so I woke and packed up to make it there before sunrise. As I perched on those rocks and watched the colors spread across the horizon, I felt so calm. The sun peeked its head above the mountain ridegeline, and I knew I was exactly where I wanted to be. It was clear, peaceful, and the most beautiful view I have seen on the trail thus far. I will never forget that moment. 

What am I paying for? 

Views aside- word on the trail is, hikers want to know where exactly the $40 thru-hiker permit money is going. For the first time since Springer Mountain, I at times found the trail difficult to follow. As I entered the national park, I noticed a significant decrease in white blazes, particularly through the southwestern half. As I neared Clingmans Dome and Newfound Gap, many blazes appeared and continued on with decent regularity throughout the rest of the park. The trail maintenance was also markedly different from what I had experienced in Georgia. There were downed trees everywhere. It was clear that some of them had been left across the trail for years, resulting in new paths formed to circumnavigate sprawling trunks and branches. This lack of maintenance is expanding the impact of foot traffic on forest ground – something I assumed a national park would be more concerned about. 

It is my understanding that the permit fees are likely intended to cover the cost of shelter use required by hikers in the national park. As Derek says, “More like Smokey and the Bandit” (not sure what that means- it’s probably to from a movie I haven’t seen.) Most of these shelters were likely built in the 1960s, and one must wonder if they have received any significant updates since. My crew and I hiked through the Smokies in mid-April, which is considered peak season, and found the shelters to be very crowded and unable to accommodate crowds of 30+ hikers. In the national park, hikers are (understandably so) not allowed to stealth camp, which means you must tent near shelters. Unfortunately, most shelters offer unreliable terrain for tent campers. Let’s just say hammockers will thrive in the Smokies. 

Okay, it wasn’t all bad. 

Though the shelters couldn’t protect all 30+ of us from the cold and rain, they were generally large, warm structures with tarps set up to the block the wind. Most had fireplaces inside and multiple benches outside for several individuals to share a cooking/eating space. Every shelter also had bear cables, which made it easy to safely store our food overnight. I was also pleased to find a few of the cleanest privies yet. Mulch was provided to speed up the moldering process. 

The Smokies are a fantastic spot to meet other hikers. I met many thru-hikers I had never crossed paths with before. I also loved hanging out with some section hikers working their way through the national park! We were all so grateful to find trail magic at Clingmans Dome (shoutout to my fam!!) and Newfound Gap (thank you, Noah’s Ark Widows Ministry!!).

As I climbed the peaks of this widely acclaimed region, my friends and I could not help but notice that this trail was carved through the mountains for us. The original path of the trail through the park shows genius design. We walked ridgelines with views of mountains sprawling for miles on either side. It is absolutely stunning. The sign at Newfound Gap reads, “for the permanent enjoyment of the people.” And oh how we enjoyed it. 

Overall, the Smokies have earned their reputation for being some of the most rugged terrain you’ll encounter in the south. I believe your walk through these mountains is well worth the perpetual hills and rocky paths. The views are unmatched. 

The people who walked this land before us called it Shaconage, place of the blue smoke. What a wonder it is that the same God who created, loved, and provided for them here does the same for us. What a gift this land is to all who traverse it. If your spirit is willing, you will not leave unchanged.