In & Out of Stevens Pass

Day 110

After eating breakfast, I journaled in my tent and was the last of our tramily to leave camp. Not far along the trail, I encountered Pluto, Luna, and Martin looking down on Spectacle Lake. It was a neat lake, nearly separated in two by a large spit of land. I then proceeded several miles downhill, into a burn area with lots of pinkish purple fireweed.

At Lemah Creek, I caught up to Sky-Hi on the log crossing. When I mentioned the upcoming climb, he quickly mapped out an alternate, 9.4 vs 17 miles and far less gain. I left him to his explorations and continued along the PCT. On the climb, I found Jiyu and we chatted until I stopped for water. Then I caught up to Hobble-it. Before long, the two of us passed Jiyu, who was in the midst of a Snickers break.

At the top of the climb, I stopped for lunch by a small lake and chatted with a section hiking couple that had a cute chihuahua mix dog. Soon Hobble-it, Pluto, Luna, and Martin joined us at the lake. Luna swam and the dog begged for food from Pluto. Apparently, the dog hurt one paw that morning. Its owner put it into the top of her pack for the afternoon hike and it looked so blissful.

Lunch was followed by a very long, rocky, switch-backed downhill. At the bottom, I caught up to Sandbag. We chatted for the next five or six miles, which included a stop for water and the beginning of another climb. We encountered two SOBO hikers, Pepper and Kevin, who I met my first day on trail and once while Hobble-it and I were SOBO. It was fun to catch-up! After a 25-mile day, Sandbag and I reached our intended site. There we found Ludacris, one of Sandbag’s prior trail companions. Hobble-it joined us in camp while Pluto and friends went on.

Day 111

There was such a cold wind blowing through camp that even I packed up without eating breakfast, though I stopped within minutes and ate in the shelter of a rock overhang. Happily, the trail traveled mainly uphill for miles, so I warmed up. In the midst of the climb, two section hikers told me that Sky-Hi camped near them at Deep Lake.

The morning was the perfect counterpoint to the previous day, full of solitude rather than companions. I listened to “The Overstory” with rapt attention, yet noted the beauty all around. I stopped several times for water. My favorite was a cascade that tumbled over giant boulders. I watched the water flowing past as I ate a snack.

At a spit of land between the two Deception Lakes, Pluto and Hobble-it beckoned me over. Solitude pulled at me and I rather reluctantly joined them, Martin, and Luna for lunch. Nonetheless, I enjoyed their company. It was a pleasantly steep climb out of the lakes and the next downhill brought a view of heart-shaped Glacier Lake. I walked the valley beyond Glacier Lake before a final steep climb and partial descent left me above Trap Lake. All the lakes were a deep blue.

At a small brook, I took a strawberry muffin break. Yum, thanks Sonic! Then it was three-ish more miles to Mig Lake, not deep blue, with insect clouds swirling above the surface. Ludacris and Sandbag sat on the sandy shore. I joined them and ate my dinner. When Hobble-it arrived, the four of us discussed possible town plans. Later I washed my calves and feet in the lake, filtering water as they dried. I spotted a cute frog perched on a rock.

Day 112

The 7.5 miles to Steven’s Pass went quickly. I stopped at Lake Susan Jane to use the open-air toilet, basically a wood box over a hole. At the top of the next ascent, I passed beneath a ski lift. Soon the ski lodge came into view. Hobble-it texted that she and the others were checking out the Mountain Lodge.

When I arrived, everyone but Hobble-it was in the midst of showers or laundry. I decided not to stay, after all it’d only been three days since town luxuries. Hobble-it opted to hike out with me. However, we left our packs at the lodge as we went in search of a hitch, accompanied by Sandbag and Ludacris. After only ten minutes, a friendly young man, coming off an overnight hike, gave us a ride into Leavenworth.

Leavenworth is styled after a Bavarian town and it was picturesque, though very touristy. We went straight to a restaurant where I got a delicious bowl with a plethora of fresh veggies, sweet potatoes, mint leaves, rice, and a soft-boiled egg. Next we wandered the busy shop area. Ludacris lives in Berlin and said there were authentic bits to the town. At the outfitter, Sandbag got a new Thermarest as hers failed dramatically two days ago. We stopped at McDonald’s for ice cream and I traded podcast favs with Ludacris.

Even the post office had a Bavarian flare. Hobble-it and I got boxes; I found surprise Rice Krispy treats in mine, yay! Then all of us went to Safeway and I found a new GF Oreo flavor… mint! We got a hitch back to the pass from a kind lady whose family makes and distributes a caramel sauce. We met her mom and 98-year-old grandmother! Back at the lodge, we organized our resupplies. Then Hobble-it and I hiked 2.4 amazingly flat miles to a campsite.

Day 113

In a meadow three miles along the trail, I came upon six grazing llamas and nine people breaking down camp. I stopped and watched the alert, curious, and expressive animals. An organizer for the group, Pass to Pass for Parkinson’s, told me about their multi-day adventure. The llamas were all female and could carry up to 50 pounds. We chatted for a long time, joined by Hobble-it.

After the llamas, Hobble-it and I hadn’t gone far when we met a man hiking with his niece. He got a picture with the two of us and named his favorite lakes in the area. Then I startled a mom grouse and at least three youngsters. The following climb to Grizzly Peak was gentler than expected. On top, we ate lunch with Wallet, a man from Seattle, hiking Washington and Oregon.

The peak’s descent provided a fantastic view of snow-covered Glacier Peak on the horizon. After a short climb, I took the side trail to Pear Lake. I chugged water and figured out how to send an InReach message to Ludacris’s Garmin. When Hobble-it arrived and went for a quick dip, I decided to wash my calves and feet in the cold water. Then I laid back on a perfectly sloped rock and dried in the bright sunlight.

From Pear Lake, the climb continued past tumbled rock fields. I spotted several adorable pikas!! In the midst of a grassy campsite, Hobble-it and I ate dinner. Afterwards, we went 2.5 miles to a camp site amidst trees, with a creek and toilet nearby. We did 22 miles; I got a Garmin message from Ludacris that they camped at Pear Lake.