Sierra City to Echo Lake

Day 131

Hobble-it allowed herself to sleep in before returning to trail. I gave her a hug. I might not see her again on the PCT. She is hurrying ahead so that she can take a week off in September, to summit Katahdin with our only tramily member who did not reach the terminus last year.

Apparently I had a tendonitis flare up in my left foot, the treatment being to stay off it. This was per Hobble-it, who has a lot of foot issues and takes ibuprofen daily for pain relief. When I went outside for better cell service, Rob, the hotel’s owner, asked if I wanted coffee. I happily accepted a cup, such a treat to have it hot! After chatting with my mom, I hung my tent, Ursack, and sink-laundered socks on the hotel’s balcony rail. Then I called a friend and watched sporadic traffic go by.

For a late lunch, I ate freshly made french fries and two hard-boiled eggs at the Country Store across the street. Sandbag texted that she got back on trail at Donner Pass. On the store’s porch, I chatted with a thru-hiker, Pineapple Boy, that I saw a couple times in northern Washington.

At 5:30 pm, I hiked along the paved road to the trail crossing, taking in the small town that blurred past yesterday. Once on trail, I kept it short and camped at Milton Creek. A hiker I met in town, named Ian, was also tented there with his dog Sandy.

Day 132

When I set off, my left foot still hurt to walk on, though it was a dull not sharp pain. Happily the day’s trail was mostly uphill, which reduced the impact. Mid-morning I heard sawing noises and distant tree falls. I kept alert and soon encountered a logger. He motioned for a loader and earth mover to pause operation then pointed out a path between two large log piles. I picked up the PCT on the other side.

After lunch, I found a large patch of white flowers busy with Hummingbird Moths. They were cute and colorful with long proboscis. I got very close and they did not seem to mind, intent on their work. The encounter was in the midst of a long ridge walk, which I loved for its epic views of lakes and craggy peaks. At the next road crossing, I chatted with two section hikers. The woman and I saw a reddish brown fox run across the road.

Though I want to catch up to Sandbag, I also want to take it easy on my foot. Often I choose my campsite based on mileage vs. description; today I did the reverse. The 23 mile site was lovely with a fantastic view, large double trunk tree, and rocks for sitting. It had cell service too! And since I stopped early-ish I had time to mend a couple holes in my sun shirt and one in my pants.

Day 133

As I ate strawberry almond oatmeal in my tent, I watched the horizon slowly lighten, from blue to yellow beyond black peaks. The trail took me down into forest and past a series of small ponds. I pondered Babel, which I finished last night. It was beautifully written and I loved the characters, innovative magic, exploration of language, struggle between passive vs. violent resistance, and anti-colonial narrative.

My morning was driven by a powerful motivation… nachos! It was 15 miles to Donner Ski Ranch and I arrived shortly after noon. The nachos were everything I wanted: crunchy chips topped with refried beans, cheese, jalapeños, and guacamole.

After eating, I hung out in the hiker lounge. There was one other thru-hiker, also named Strider! The first one I have met on the PCT! We chatted for awhile about this trail and the AT. He is from Maine, which is my favorite AT state. We got a picture:

A three hour break and large meal were apparently great for my body. I charged up hills to complete the afternoon’s 9.5 miles. It helped that the section was especially scenic, sticking mainly to a ridge and offering views in every direction. I camped in trees near a small stream. After dark fell, another hiker arrived and set up a tent.

Day 134

Today was one of my harder days on trail, though it started pleasantly. I slept in so it was light when I ate breakfast. Immediately the trail took me up a ridge with stellar views. Every sight seemed vibrant and I fully enjoyed my A-Ha playlist. The trail passed under a ski lift and entered the Granite Chief Wilderness as I leap frogged with Death Trap, a thru hiker from last year who was finishing a 120 mile section. High on a ridge, I caught my first view of Lake Tahoe.

My right shin hurt somewhat the past two days, in counterpoint to my foot pain disappearing. However, the pain had not persisted until today. It became a jabbing sensation with most every step, especially on downhills. I took a long lunch, hoping the break would help, but it didn’t. Even though I finished my 26 mile day and camped at the edge of the Desolation Wilderness, the constant pain made me somewhat nauseous.

Itinerary wise, I am a day behind Hobble-it and Sandbag and hoped to catch them by skipping South Lake Tahoe. However, my body is important and I really want to finish this trail. And to enjoy finishing it! Even if I don’t catch them, there will be other hikers in the Sierra. Plus, I was enjoying solo time until the pain. So self care is my priority. Since I have no bear canister yet, I have to make it through Desolation Wilderness to Echo Lake Chalet in one day… 25 miles. If I wake up and my shin still hurts, I will take a rest day.

Day 135

I took my first on-trail zero day! Sky-Hi gave me the idea and my friend Zum challenged me to take one on the PCT. I liked the concept, but there never seemed to be the time. Well, now I am solo and have three days of food to go one day. Plus my right shin needs a rest!

My zero day in the woods was fun, relaxing, and productive. I watched Guardians of the Galaxy 3 then ate a picnic lunch at Richardson Lake, which was a mile round trip from my campsite. Back in camp, I stitched my pants in four spots then did yoga. After an early dinner, I watched Ahsoka episodes 1 & 2. I don’t care for a lot of what Disney does with Star Wars, however I enjoyed the show.

I’m a little worried about my shin/ ankle; it seems no better and is slightly swollen.

Day 136

I had trouble sleeping as my foot throbbed in both back and side positions. Eventually I gave up and broke camp, I wanted to get an early start anyway. At 3:07 am, I was on trail, lighting the way with my headlamp. There were so many stars above the dark forest. As I considered turning off my light to bask in the starlight, I spotted a pair of glowing eyes… so I went on.

The sky lightened before I crossed the outlet of Middle Velma Lake. It was as I wound along the shore of Fontanillis Lake that the Desolation Wilderness first stunned me with its beauty. I felt a desire to return and camp alongside the picturesque lake. Next I ascended to Dick’s Pass and shortly thereafter got a full view of Dick’s Lake. Then came a long downhill that was hard on my right shin. I stopped at an icy stream and submerged it for a time.

Susie Lake had a beautiful backdrop and Heather Lake a rocky shoreline that dropped straight into the water. But it was Lake Aloha that nearly took my breath away. It was a brilliant turquoise that I couldn’t quite capture on film and full of countless rock islands. I wanted to swim out to a few islands and explore… sigh, another day. Again I stopped to numb my shin in the water, which was not nearly as cold as the creek.

Not long after Lake Aloha, a ranger checked my permit. It was the first time I’d been asked and I happily showed her. Then came the Wilderness boundary and Upper & Lower Echo Lake. My calve ached so painfully the last mile, yet I was also excited to see familiar ground. Last November I hiked Lower Echo Lake with three friends, my very first steps on the PCT.

At the Echo Lake trailhead, I quickly got a hitch into South Lake Tahoe. The friendly local shared fresh grapes and pointed out past burn zones before driving me all the way to the Tahoe Valley Campground. I set up my tent before I treated myself to a vanilla milkshake at the nearby McDonalds. Guy Strider was the only other thru-hiker in camp and he kindly did my laundry while I iced my right shin area.