A 196 Mile Appalachian Trail Section Hike in May: Damascus to Hot Springs, Part 6

This is the 6th and final part of a 196-mile southbound Appalachian Trail Section Hike. Need to catch up? Click on:

Part 1

Part 2

Part 3

Part 4

Part 5

My previous blog post was about completing my final section of the trail in Maine this past September. But before I can dig into telling stories from that hike, I need to finish writing about my second to last section hike from this past May 2023. I managed to write five posts about it but then abruptly stopped before the ending. I guess I’ll just blame a busy summer! I just feel the need to add this last post before moving on and digging into stories from my final section of the trail, for the sole reason that it will drive me nuts if I leave the writings of this section hike unfinished.

Hmm, this sounds eerily like the same concept of a section hiker (me) coming back to the trail time after time until it’s finished regardless of how long it takes, doesn’t it?

Since this post serves as a catch-up, and the end of the section hike this is about was 8 months ago, I decided that I’m going to directly copy my journal entries from those days. I only write in the journal for myself, but sometimes it’s fun anyway to share the non-polished version of my thoughts that took place in real-time from my tent that weren’t intended to be directly shared.

Just to differentiate, I decided to put everything copied straight from my journal in italics. It might be a bit hard to follow, because I write about certain days out of order, but the true essence to be conveyed here is just the raw hiker thoughts in their original form!

Day 12: Stealth Tentsite on Unaka Mountain to Stealth Tentsite near Jones Branch Tributary

Thursday, May 18, 2023,

I stopped earlier than I hoped today, but it was just one of those days where I needed to be done hiking. My feet were hurting and I was just really tired. The trail was deceiving. It was mostly a downhill day, so I figured I’d be able to go farther. But the trail was full of rocks and roots which made going down really tough. 

I’m camped at a sizable campsite at Jones Branch Tributary right outside of Erwin. The problem I ran into is that there’s no water for 8 miles after this, unless I went into Erwin, but the plan was not to. I stopped at this spot around 4:30 pm. I wasn’t going to make it 8 more miles to the next shelter, and carrying a ton of water uphill to then camp and then continue hiking tomorrow also seemed like too much. I guess I was just hoping I could manage to get to Sam’s Gap a day earlier, but I’ve had to remind myself that it’s ok and I’m still on track.

I can feel my mind starting to wander to getting home, to needing to make money. But what for? Get home early to work one extra turn? (Flight attendant lingo). I need to enjoy finishing the section, I have all of next month to make money. 

Surprisingly, this is one of the first camp spots that doesn’t have service. I guess I’ve been camped up high a lot, and even though I’m close to town tonight, I’m sort of in a valley between two hills. It’s a very peaceful spot, and somewhat hidden from the trail so I’d be surprised if anyone else shows up. Plus, Trail Days starts tomorrow so I’m sure a lot of people have found their way up to Damascus. I still saw a bunch of Nobos today, but less than I’ve been seeing. 

There was trail magic at one of the roads today by a guy named Brother Tom, a missionary. He had clementines, lemonade, and pumpkin bread. At least that’s what I chose. I passed Goldilocks going the other way. He and his friend were dropping off a resupply for themselves at Greasy Creek Friendly the other day when I was leaving. He said his friend had turned around. I guess he couldn’t hack it. 

I’m going to wrap it up and get in the tent. It’s still light out since I got to camp early, so I’m still sitting outside leaning against a tree. It’s a lot easier to write when I have something to sit back against. I was slightly worried about camping here since it’s so windy, but I don’t have many options other than going into town. 

Last night I fell asleep early, but still left camp kind of late. Maybe tonight I’ll fall asleep early, but actually get moving when the sun comes up. It’s going to take a little bit of discipline not to go into town tomorrow, but I’ll be fine. 2-2.5 days until I go in at Sam’s Gap. 

Days 13-15: Stealth Tentsite near Jones Branch Tributary to Nature’s Inn Hostel

Sunday, May 21, 2023,

I’m at Nature’s Inn Hostel right now, off of Sam’s Gap between Hot Springs and Erwin. The days all blend together, especially when I skip days of writing. Sometimes I’m just too tired at the end of the day. Long spring days mean less time sitting in the tent, unlike the colder hikes when the days are shorter and there’s time to kill. 

It’s easier if I go backwards. It’s the morning (of day 15), and I was the only one here last night (at Nature’s Inn Hostel), other than 4 hikers who shuttled back from trail days and stayed in a cabin. I tented even though it was raining, because they have a covered tenting area which is pretty sweet. 

I love how every hostel has its own character. This one would win the award for best bathroom/shower house. I like the way this one is set up, because even if there were a lot of people here, it doesn’t seem like it would be too stressful.

I met the hiker with the now infamous story of getting bit by a bear in the Smokies this year. The section I’m about to do has a lot of bear problems as well. It’s starting to make me sad, realizing how much we’re encroaching on their territory. I’m starting to wonder what we’re really doing here and if it’s the best thing. 

Yesterday (Day 14) was a great hiking day, from a campsite at Whistling Gap to Sam’s Gap. There were a couple balds with amazing views, and the rain held off. The clouds hung right above the mountains so that I could still see them. I met a day hiker who rents out a cabin in Columbia, SC and gave me her contact info. There was also a cooler of trail magic left out, I had a clementine and signed the logbook. 

The night before, (Day 13), getting to Whistling Gap tentsite was so weird. I rolled up about 7:45 PM with an hour of daylight left. I figured it might be me and one or two others, but there were already 8 tents set up. Other than the guy that I almost walked up on using the restroom behind a tree, and a girl eating quietly, everyone was in their tents. The woods were silent, and you could hear a pin drop in this place. It was bizarre. 

I was so self-conscious setting up, and I took my food bag up the trail to sit somewhere farther away to eat. I don’t like rolling into camp late when there are other people there, but there was still an entire hour of daylight. I chose to camp there and not the site at Spivey Gap a few miles before, because two hikers I passed told me there were a lot of signs of bear activity there.

Now I’m remembering the rest of that day. It was basically a long climb out of Erwin. It felt kind of good to walk right past Uncle Johnny’s and not even stop, because I was afraid I’d give in and add a town stop. But I already did that at Greasy Creek, so it all worked out.

Well, I have 3-4 hiking days left of this section. I think it’s making things feel easier because I know that no matter what happens or how hard it feels, I’m almost done. 

Day 16-17: Nature’s Inn Hostel to Stealth Tentsite 3 Miles North of Hot Springs

Tuesday, May 23, 2023, 

I’m camped 3-3.5 miles from Hot Springs right now. It’s crazy that I’m that close. I was way too tired to write last night, after somehow managing to do 17 miles. So as usual, I’ll go backwards. 

I’m tired right now too, but I have a nice fire going and it might be a little bit before it goes out. It’s funny how that happens, when earlier I had to work hard to keep it going.

This morning I was camped about .2 miles south of Log Cabin Drive, which is where the Southern Cookie Lady’s cabin is. She leaves out cookies and water for the hikers, every single day. They’re all homemade. There really are some remarkable people that take care of hikers, and I just don’t know how they do it all. 

Today felt like one of the hardest hiking days of the whole trip. It might be in part because I’m probably calorie deprived, but there were four steep uphills and at times I wondered how I would get up them. A 7 mile section is closed to camping due to aggressive bear activity, and I did see a bear briefly through the trees as I came up to Spring Mountain Shelter. There were 2 people there eating lunch, and one of them was from Chicago. He was such a Chicago guy. 

Yesterday (Day 16) I met 4 hikers that were fun to camp with. Day Pack, Goodwill, Super 8, and Sloth. Most of them were doing long sections like me. Yesterday’s trail had some cool parts. It was rocky like the Whites and had a lot of views. I feel like there’s so much I could write about and reflect on, but I’m just so tired. It’s easier to just stare at the fire. 

Everything is very peaceful right now. Sometimes I don’t sleep the best in the woods, but I’m so much more at ease than I used to be. Some of the wildlife makes me feel comforted rather than nervous, like the black beetle that keeps circling the area in front of me. The owls and whip-poor-wills are familiar. There was a deer hanging out here eating plants earlier. The moon is a waxing crescent through the trees. There are other people camped maybe not even a mile away. Sometimes branches creek in the wind. 

Yes, there are bears out there, but I’m just hoping they don’t bother me. I know they’d want my food more than me. I just have to take this in. It’s hard to, because I’m sort of in a daze and it’s hard to comprehend the alternate world I’m about to head back to, even though I’m looking forward to the comforts of my apartment at the exact same time. 

Day 18: Stealth Tentsite 3 Miles North of Hot Springs to Laughing Heart Hostel in Hot Springs, NC

This was the last day of the section hike, and I didn’t write anything that evening after getting to the hostel. I only had a three-something mile hike, mostly downhill into Hot Springs. I had been to this part of the trail before and knew how close I was to town when I rounded a corner and caught my first view of the French Broad River down below, with a field of solar panels covering one of the hills across the way.

My mind tends to exist in a strange place at a point like that. Before I could figure out where to stay that night, I had to track down a shuttle driver and find out what their availability might be like to drive me to Asheville, whether it be that same day, the next day, or beyond. Inside my head existed a spinning wheel that kept stopping between logistics, sadness for having to go home, and excitement for town comforts in Hot Springs. I was not exactly in the moment, until a few minutes later.

I got to the bottom of the mountain and continued the route of the AT that follows a path along the river just outside of town, and wound up watching four baby geese learning to swim upstream with their parents for about twenty minutes. An actual tear or two appeared on my cheek because the cuteness was just too touching to handle. That was probably also a sign that I was very ready for a hearty meal. 

A hearty meal I did have, when I went to the Smoky Mountain Diner with another hiker I met named Clutch, who then convinced me I needed to try some mango ice cream from a little place in Hot Springs called Artisun Gallery and Cafe. I hadn’t done either the previous two times I’d been to this town, so the outing made my hike that much more complete. 

I went to bed early that night at Laughing Heart Hostel, right where the Appalachian Trail meets the south end of town.  It was strange knowing that the next 188 mile section I’d set out for in Maine would complete the trail, but knowing I’d be back to the AT again for that next hike was what kept my spirits happy rather than sad as I climbed into the shuttle that next morning to head home.

Bonus Pictures 🙂