Endless Wait in the Blizzard at Carver’s Gap

Carver’s Gap, (1680 m / 5512 ft,) It was 19:40. I had been waiting for MS for 40 minutes in the dark. I was freezing, and the wind was chilling me to the bone. I tried to protect myself from the wind, but I dared not stray from the parking area in case MS would miss me. She had sent me a message at 19:00, the time we were supposed to meet, telling me she would be late. I was torn between growing frustration and palpable irritation towards her.

Finally, I saw headlights in the distance. At this late hour, it could only be her. I was saved. My ordeal was about to end!

She explained that she had made a detour to fill up the water tank so I could take a shower. That was kind of her… but at that moment, the thought of undressing made me shiver.

A little later, once I had finally warmed up, the hot shower was a real relief.

Throughout the night, the increasingly violent wind shook the van with force. I was thankful to be sleeping in the van that night rather than in a refuge filled with cold drafts.

Finding the Strength to Move On: A Compromise That Changes Everything

Upon waking, the mercury showed -17°C (1°F) with the wind chill, and everything was white around us. The fir trees had turned into ghosts, draped in a sparkling snow mantle.

It was almost as if we had woken up in a world enchanted and frozen by the cold. However, the blizzard was still raging outside. It did not make me want to resume walking. The idea of leaving our cozy cocoon to face the elements made me shiver more than the temperature itself, especially since the next night would also be very cold. I almost wanted to take a day off.

Especially since MS had long decided she would not set a big toe outside today.

Nevertheless, I had to go out if only to clear the ice from the solar panels. I then saw a group of hikers delighted by all this beautiful snow. They were the inspiration I needed.

Moreover, an idea sprouted in my mind. I could walk to the village of Roan Mountain, and MS could meet me there with the van. It seemed like a good compromise. It also allowed me to leave with a lighter backpack, which was almost the equivalent of a day off!

The sun finally showed its face, and I gathered enough courage to get moving again. It was beautiful outside. A winter landscape as I love. Ultimately, I felt quite well and was happy to walk in such a fairy-tale setting. Let’s just say it was a change from the usual brown. Just minutes after leaving the van, I reached a clear summit and saw all that white splendor stretching as far as the eye could see.

I felt so good. I was happy to have braved the elements. Against all odds, it was my most beautiful day on the trail since the start of this adventure. It’s so rare to hike on a treeless ridge on the Appalachian Trail. It changes everything!

In the village of Roan Mountain, 900 m/ 2,900 ft lower, the contrast was striking! No sign of winter there. I found the usual brown and the leafless trees of the dead season. My everyday reality, in short!

And this time, MS was precisely on schedule! It added a touch of perfection to an already memorable day.

Arrival in Virginia and a First Injury

I wrapped up the Carver’s Gap adventure on day 20 of my journey, and now, as I write these lines, I already find myself on day 30. Time flies! In the meantime, I left behind Tennessee and North Carolina to dive into Virginia, the longest stretch of the Appalachian Trail.

I also experienced my first pains. My left leg started hurting, and the next day, it got worse. I was really worried. A first injury so early in the adventure was not good news. MS urgently joined me with the van, and I was even able to get a last-minute physio consultation with Dr. Morgan Brosnihan (@blazephysio) via FaceTime. She treats thru-hikers from her van on the Pacific Crest Trail. What luck to know this physio and to have been able to find an appointment so quickly, even if it took place at 22:00!

The diagnosis? A simple muscle strain, nothing that could stop my adventure. Phew! What a relief!!! The treatment? Exercises every two hours, a bit of taping, and a compression bandage. And, icing on the cake, a rest day was prescribed. My very first break on the AT!

And as if by magic, that day off saved me from dreadful weather on the trail: temperatures hovering around 2°C/28°F during the day and plummeting to -8°C/17°F at night, accompanied by a mix of rain, snow, and hail.

Since then, my leg has been much better, and I’ve hit the road again with renewed vigor.

However, MS had to fly to Montreal for the spring break with her children. I’ll be going solo for the next two weeks. It doesn’t scare me, far from it. It’s not my first thru-hike, but it’s certainly the first time I’ve experienced such a level of comfort. It will be interesting to see how I adapt without all these little luxuries.

What lies ahead promises to be an adventure in itself, and I’m eager to see what the next days have in store for me.

Trail Lessons: Essential insights for Thru-Hikers

Eager to contribute to the thru-hiker community and offer valuable insights to those considering such an adventure, I’ve decided to enrich my stories with four new sections. The goal is to highlight the significant moments, the challenges faced, the little finds that brighten the day-to-day, and the realizations on the trail.

I hope these sections make the story of my adventure on the Appalachian Trail more tangible and useful for thru-hikers.

The wins

• The bivy sack is a precious ally against wind and rain in shelters. It greatly improves comfort during the night.

• A plastic tarp: A lightweight marvel that keeps my sleeping area safe from the insidious dust lurking on platforms. I chose a tarp from the same brand as my bivy for perfect compatibility, but here’s a secret between us: a simple painting tarp, cut to the right size, works just as well. Thanks to this trick, I ensure my resting space remains impeccable without adding unnecessary weight to my bag.
• The food: Anything but monotonous. We’ve prepared a variety of seasonings for ramen, different kinds of smoothies and energy drinks, and a wide array of bars and snacks. No signs of food fatigue, just a daily feast that boosts morale and energy.

The Fails

• So many problems with sleeping pads! First, a Thermarest NeoAir UberLite that kept losing air, then a NeoAir XLite with the same issue. Temporary solution: a ZLite foam pad, but goodbye warmth.
• Finally, in Damascus, I invested in a Thermarest NeoAir XTherm: heavier and more expensive, but waking up warm on a fully inflated pad is worth it.

Current Luxury Pick

• My smartwatch: it’s my electronic logbook, keeping track of every step, every ascent, and every mile conquered. In the spirit of CYTC, it allows me to measure my achievements and refine my strategy on the trail.

Trail Revelations

• This journey has brought me a major revelation: my perception of distance has completely changed. Before, each thru-hike felt like an endless odyssey, a path stretching into infinity. But now, I see the horizon of the Appalachian Trail getting closer. Changing states brings a new rhythm, a tangible progress that already sketches the finish line. With over a quarter of the journey completed in just one month, Katahdin is only a matter of time. According to my calculations, I should get there by May 1st. An anticipation that changes everything.