Leaving Monson

Bubbles drove me to the trailhead after a delicious breakfast at Shaws Hostel of eggs, home fries, and blueberry pancakes.  The trail south was similar to the 100 Mile Wilderness, except that some  of the muddy areas were a bit drier.

I had two streams to ford that day:  the first with water just above my knees and the second up to my thighs. I had tucked my hiking skirt up under my belt and my underwear did not get wet.

That night I camped on an old logging road near a couple in a tent. I was camped near a recent logging road with a clearing in the woods and saw the super moon, pictured below.

It got pretty cold that night, probably in the high 40’s. With the colder nights, I have noticed that birds are no longer singing at dawn and are quieter during the day,

The next day, I forded Bald Mocie Stream, took a nice break at Bald Moxie Pond, and hiked up Bald Moxie Mountain, where I took off my pack, sat down, and feasted in blueberries.

I had one more stream to ford before the day was over. Someone with long legs would have rock hopped Baker Stream. My short kegs could not. About 6 feet from completing the ford, I slipped on a large submerged rock and fell in. The current was not strong and I got up easily, but my hiking skirt and underwear were soaked. Since I thought it would be an easy ford, I had not packed my phone away and it got wet. Ugh.

That night I camped in the woods near a power line. I made a small fire to keep the bugs at bay and to warm up. I was able to dry my skirt in the waning sun. My phone also dried out. A Canadian hiking the International AT (he started in Newfoundland) camped in the clearing. The moon again shined brightly on this cold night.

The next day I hiked up Pleasant Mountain. Near the top, I met 2 day hikers, one of whom must have been in his 80’s, who pointed out where the AT used to go. At the summit, I chatted with Water, a thru hiker completing last year’s hike. That night I stayed at the lovely Sterling Inn in Caratunk (thank you Eric and Zachary for your hospitality) and ate a delicious dinner at the Kennebec River Brewery, where I enjoyed chatting with the parents of the bartender and a river guide.

Kennebec River Crossing

The next morning I was at the Kennebec River shortly after 9 a.m. The official route across the river is by canoe as the river is wide and deep and the water surges unexpectedly. Greg, the ferryman, was already ferrying one hiker across when I arrived. A NOBO, who was slack packing south  that day, and I crossed together. Although I paddle well, I was content to let the NOBO paddle with Greg. When I turned my upper body to photograph Greg, he admonished me to sit still.

Afyer the crossing, I hiked slowly. My legs picked their way over roots, rocks, and mud. I missed the stream crossing over a cascade shown in the photograph below, perhaps because it looked like logs had simply fallen over the stream, and realized I was off trail. I returned and crossed.

I was very happy to take a blue blaze trail from Harrison’s Fishing Camp to avoid fording the Pierce Pond Outlet. Thank you, Tim,  Camp owner, who answered my questions about the blue blaze trail and allows AT hikers to access his bridge. Late afternoon, I met 2 hikers at Sandy Stream, who suggested I could stealth camp in a car pull out on a logging road near Sandy Stream. And so I did. That night it rained.

The Bigelows

The next day I wished I had hiked the additional few miles to West Carry Pond Leanto. Because I had stopped early, I had to hike 15 miles up Little Bigelow and down to the Safford Notch Campsite. It rained intermittently that day and I was often hiking over rocky ledges, not my favorite conditions.

I missed a spring or else it had dried up. A few tenths of a mile from Safford Notch, I passed a lovely stealth site in a pine forest. I chose to continue on to the designated campsite with its water source, privy, and probably other hikers.

Shortly afterwards, I noticed that it had gotten darker. It was only 6 p.m. I thought my eyes, which have developed cataracts, were playing tricks on me. No eye tricks. It soon started to rain. Should I return to the stealth site or go on? I continued on, my feet got soaked in a wet spot, and I arrived at the campsite in the pouring rain.

After passing two hikers hunkered down in a cave and one hiker in a tent, I hastily chose a site and set up my tent. I was so discouraged about my wet feet and the rain that I didn’t cook a hot dinner. Instead I ate a bar and cashews in the tent and fell asleep to the sound of rain.

In the morning, I slept in until about 7 a.m, which is late for me. It had stopped raining, so I cooked my hot dinner and got water. When I resumed hiking, I took a photograph of the cave where the couple had spent  the night before.
I was delighted to catch up to Mike and Ana, the couple who slept in the cave. They told me they took a zero in the cave, spending 2 nights there because of the rainy weather. They wanted a clear day for views on the Bigelow Range. The were also working on videos, which they post on You Tube.

I found myself hiking very slowly along the rocky Bigelow  Range. There were some difficult rock scrambles and roots and rocks just waiting to twist an ankle or cause a stumble. Thankfully the sun was shining.

At the summit of Bigelow Mountsin-Avery Peak, I took off my socks and trail runners, which dried in the sun. The photograph below was taken by a mother hiking with her three young sons.
At the summit of the North  Horn, I met a delightful group of teenage girls who planned to camp at Horn Pond. Most of the girls had attended the camp since they were 6 years old and this hike was a tradition for their age group. I decided I too would camp at Horn Pond although I would not be hiking a full day.

At Horn Pond, I enjoyed sitting at the edge of the Pond, which is actually a tarn, where I talked to the caretaker Valkery, aka Valerie. Back at my tentsite, I saw Tumbleweed arrive. I  had met her at Shaws Hostel and later on the trail. She had taken a zero the day before rather than hike in the rain. Smart move.

I returned to the Pond just after sunset and took the photo below.

Back at my tentsite, a group of Québécois girls, whom I had passed the day before, were arriving. Unlike the girls from the Maine camp, they were not required to hike together. Some of them arrived more than an hour after the others. The next morning, the  girls from the Maine camp left after 6 a.m. The Quebcois girls were still sleeping when I left about 7 a.m.

On the descent from Horn Pond, Tumbleweed and I hiked together for awhile. I planned to hike a second short day and spend the night in Stratton. She was not stopping and hiked on. As I slowly descended, I met Vickie, who was day hiking to prepare to summit Katahdin with a friend and a guide. Now that sounds like a wise plan!

The Maine Roadhouse, where I planned to stay in Stratton, is run by two women, both named Jen. Unfortunately I had not made a reservation soon enough. When I arrived,  I saw Mike and Ana, who are staying there.  I spent the afternoon at the  hostel showering, doing laundry, and resupplying. I stayed in  overflow lodging at the Stratton Motel.

After settling into my room at the motel, I bought more supplies at the grocery store in town. Then I headed across the street for dinner. To my surprise, Vickie, the dayhiker I met earlier, was also there. She recognized me when I walked in and invited me to join her and her husband. We spent an enjoyable meal together, sharing life stories. Thank you Vickie for picking up my tab!

Tomorrow I am off to Crocker Cirque and beyond. I received a text message yesterday from Pacer. She may catch up to me soon! I woke up to the red sky below.

Red sky in the morning, sailors take warning. This does not bode well.