New York Highs and Lows

Literally and figuratively, New York had plenty of ups and downs for me.

When I was planning for my thru-hike, there were a few items on my “I can’t wait to do this on the trail” list.

One was to see the amazing views from Clingman’s Dome. Nope. Socked in with clouds.

Another was to stay in the highest shelter on the trail atop Roan Mountain. Nope. So cold when I got up there that I couldn’t make my hands work and everything was frozen—the trail, the water source, etc. I headed down to the gap where water was flowing, and the temp was in the 40s.

Still another was to walk through the Bear Mountain Museums and Zoo and visit the lowest point on the trail. Once again, thanks to the heavy rains not long before I got there, the zoo was closed because (ironically) there was no water.

No signs on the trail heading into the zoo…just this sad sign on the gate.

I realize I shouldn’t complain.

I’m enjoying the adventure of a lifetime and I’m getting quite a few of those I can’t wait to do this moments. Every day is filled with fantastic views, wonderful people, and very little stress. And aside from my zoo disappointment, New York proved to be challenging and rewarding.

Once again, due to the heavy rains, water sources were unsafe and the trail angels came out in force, leaving clean water at trailheads. More about that in a future trail magic blog.

Switchbacks? We don’t need no stinking switchbacks!

It’s as though the folks who planned the trail through NY got tired of working out switchbacks to avoid big rock scrambles. So what if you have a wide body or a wide pack. “Let’s put the trail through this rock and a hard place and call it ‘The Lemon Squeezer.’ ”

Cue diabolical laughter.

The Lemon Squeezer tested my patience as I had to take apart my pack and shimmy the pieces through on multiple trips.

ATC: *sees piles of rocks onto the trail* “No, don’t go around, go over.”

1,400 Miles

I was thrilled to pass the 1,400-mile marker just before the Palisades Parkway. The trail no longer requires hikers to dodge speeding traffic on the parkway. Last year, a safe re-route was put in place. Yeah, it adds a little distance to the trail, but at least I don’t feel like I’m in the 1980s Atari game “Frogger.” A bridge over the parkway will keep hikers safe.

The state did boast many waterfalls (probably more than usual) and one spectacular river crossing.

Fitzgerald Falls

The Hudson River

I’ve crossed the Hudson in a car too many times to count, so crossing it on foot via the Bear Mountain Bridge was a real treat. For about one-third of a mile, I had one of the prettiest views on the trail. Heading east, a freight train entered and exited the tunnel along the west river bank. I could see the footbridge to Fort Montgomery. On the east bank a Metro North commuter train sped along. The sun reflected on the ripples in the current and the wind almost took my hat into the water. But straight ahead was a long climb, so I didn’t linger for too long.

The Hudson on a beautiful day. I really lucked out!

Another item on my list was the Wind Phone.

You might recall from previous blogs that in December of 2021, a dear friend, Mark, and my mom passed away within ten days of each other, and then my dad passed away 13 months later, in January of 2023. While my mom’s passing was expected, the loss of my dad and my friend were unexpected.

Having read about the Wind Phone, I believed it would help me heal from the fresh wounds of loss.

The Wind Phone

The phone is simply that—an old-school rotary phone in the middle of the woods connected to nothing but the air. A sign nearby reads, “This Telephone of the Wind is for all who grieve… Please use it to connect with those you have lost, to feel the comfort of their memory. May you hear their voices in the wind. May you be at peace with your losses.”

I called Mark first. Then I called my parents. Alone in the green cathedral, I spoke to them and wept. I found solace.

9/11 Memorial

A memorial for 9/11 has been painted on a rock high on the summit of Shenandoah Mountain.  No views of New York City from the trail due to the lingering smoke from the Canadian wildfires.

The Dover Oak

Another really cool spot on the NY AT is in Pawling, the home of the Dover Oak. I mentioned the Keffer Oak in Virginia in a previous blog. Well, the Dover Oak is even bigger! Its circumference is 20’ 4” and it is estimated to be over 300 years old.

That’s me, dwarfed by the giant Dover Oak.

A train stop for the AT

Another point of interest I was looking forward to seeing was the Appalachian Trail stop on the Metro North commuter line. There is a stop dedicated to the trail crossing and hikers can take a side trip into New York City for just a few dollars. The train doesn’t stop every time it passes the station, so check the schedule if you think you’ll be venturing into the Big Apple while on your thru-hike.

I was told of some thru-hikers who live in NYC who occasionally hop on the train with a cooler and set up trail magic at the stop. I didn’t get to see them, but I’m so glad they do it.