Bama➡️Baxter Day 55&56

Day 55: 8.8 miles

This morning we all woke up in the hotel around 6am. Even in town we don’t sleep in. Solo had offered to take all of us to an Ingles grocery store 20 minutes away to resupply. The resupply at the dollar general in Hot Springs was apparently pretty sparse. So we got up and ready to grab breakfast and meet him.

While we were walking to breakfast we ran into Solo and then headed over together. It was a great simple breakfast to quell our hunger before resupplying. It’s so dangerous to resupply when you’re hungry.

On the ride over to grocery store I tried to get some journaling done. I was determined to fill the big journal that I was carrying so that I could mail it out before leaving Hot Springs today. Then we shopped at Ingles and got everything we needed before heading back. I journaled the whole way back and I kept on journaling back at our room. Intermittently I finished packing my pack and got ready to leave town. We’re hiking out eventually today but not planning to do many miles.

After journaling for over an hour at the room I finally filled the hard cover journal that I got after the smokies! I was so stoked that I could mail out the two that I was carrying. So I posted those and then went to the gear shop across the street and bought a new smaller hiking journal.

Around 11:30am we all got our stuff out of the room and got ready to walk. We thanked Solo for everything and said our goodbyes to him. What an incredibly cool dude. It was so nice meeting him on trail, and I was so glad that we reached out to him before getting into Hot Springs. He took care of us immensely. I still can’t believe that he got us a room for the night and a meal. That’s the most incredible trail magic that I think I’ve ever experienced. I hope to see him again some day truly.

Finally around noon we decided to start walking. And we didn’t make it more than 2 blocks before seeing a sign for ice cream and immediately getting off course. We all got a cone and sat outside to eat them before heading out. Best decision ever.

Then we actually got to walking! There was a solid hunk of uphill to do coming out of Hot Springs. And on top of that it was ridiculously hot. It started around 80 degrees and got up to 87 as the day went on. We were suffering coming up with our packs heavy from resupplying. After just a few miles we took our first break. Fortunately we were only planning to do 8.8 miles so we had all day to get it done.

After that break we all continued along with much more uphill to go. It was nearly all uphill until we reached the Rich Mountain fire tower. As we walked along we passed so many hikers going South who were slack packing to beat the heat. They had the right idea for sure. The climbing felt so much more strenuous with how hot it was.

We wound up stopping for yet another break before the final bit of climbing. Normally we can push on a lot further in between breaks but all of us were suffering. But the plus side to carrying so much food was that at least I could eat whatever I wanted! I packed out a whole can of French onion dip and a bag of chips which I devoured. That was a delicious choice that I’ve never made before when resupplying.

Finally after laying down for our final long break we pushed on to the tower. The uphill seemed to feel progressively easier as the day went on. And eventually we got to junction for the tower. Loads of people were setting up their tents but the four of us had different plans. We wanted to cowboy camp up at the top of the fire tower! That way we can watch an epic sunset tonight and a beautiful sunrise tomorrow morning. What more could you ask for?

Apparently no one else shared in our idea because the tower was empty when we arrived. It was a partially enclosed tower with just the windows and door frame open. Though the floor was a grate rather than wood, so I could see how it could get pretty cold up there at night. But we were ready for tough it out for the views.

I got my cowboy camp set up and then ate a bunch more chips and dip for dinner. My only regret was wishing that I’d brought out even more. Then we all hung out talking and what not until the time came for the sun to set. I even got some journaling done and was officially caught up on all my writing! It may sound silly but that felt like a massive accomplishment. I haven’t been caught up on journaling in weeks because of falling behind when I was sick on the Pinhoti Trail. It felt like quite the weight lifted off my shoulders. Daily journaling typically is a nice way for me to de stress. But when you fall behind it can become quite the daunting under taking. Especially when you’re on trail and truly just want to rest in your down time.

When the sun finally set it was incredible. We had 360 views and I was so glad that we decided to camp at the tower. All of us watched as the sun completely set. Then the stars came out and we had that to enjoy as well. It was hands down one of the best nights on trail, and one of the best places I’ve ever camped.

Day 56: 18.6 miles

This morning we woke up on the fire tower before the sun came up. It was a little cold out but not too bad considering how exposed we were. The wind picked up a bit last night but I was still toasty and comfortable all night. No regrets at all about camping up there. I would truly recommend it to anyone doing the AT. The sunrise was incredible and I was able to watch it from the comfort of my sleeping bag. It doesn’t get much better than that.

A few other hikers climbed up the tower to watch the sunrise with us. It was such an incredible way to start off the day. I might even say it was my favorite morning yet on trail on my entire Bama to Baxter hike.

After we watched the sun rise we began to pack up. Then we headed out to begin walking. Our spirits were all so high starting off.

The trail had a lot of downhill to get started and then a pretty gradual climb. We cruised along and took our first break a few miles in at a shelter. Truthfully we all just wanted to use the privy. I used the opportunity to make my 700 mile mark sign out of sticks. I meant to do that nearly 20 miles ago when I actually hit 700, but now is better than never.

After a quick stop off there we headed on. The next few miles were pretty gradual. It was such a beautiful day to be out hiking. We pushed on a handful more miles before stopping by a road. There was a lovely sunny spot on the other side of the street and a few other hikers had the same idea. We lounged there for a while and enjoyed the rays.

From there it was only a couple miles to a junction where apparently a nice older lady lived and bakes fresh cookies for hikers. She’s known as the “Cookie Lady”. We couldn’t resist pulling off there to check it out. She had a full station set up to sanitize your hands, fill water bottles, and then grab a free cookie! The first ones on the house and then it’s just $2 per cookie after that. The cookie was delicious but I had way too much food left to buy some more.

A load of hikers were congregated there at the Cookie Ladies house. It was such a cool place to stop off. The house is literally right next to the AT.

After sitting there for a bit we continued along. Following the Cookie Ladies house we had our final big climb of the day. It wasn’t too bad though and once we reached the top the rest of the day was pretty cruisy. There was a junction where we had the option to continue along the AT or do a “bad weather alternate” which we heard was a bit easier. But we chose to stay on the AT and deal with the more rocky and exposed climb. I’m sure the alternate was easier but we got some amazing views on the actual trail. It was definitely worth it.

Only a few miles later we reached Jerry’s Cabin Shelter where we planned to stay the night. Just before arriving at the shelter we passed the 300 mile mark on the AT! I can’t believe that I’ve already made it so far. The time out here feels like it simultaneously moves in slow motion and also hyper speed.

Sadly when we got to the shelter it was full so we had to tent. We all found space to set up but the sites were really slanted. It’s going to rain later today and over night though, so we’ll see how that goes.

There were lots of gnats swarming around so I spent most of the evening in my tent. Then eventually we all called it a night.