Day 120: Vermont’s Best View… And Its Worst

Goals

We boondocked at the trailhead where I met Northstar yesterday, so this morning I just had to get dressed, eat breakfast, and walk out the door, all of which I’d done by 6:20 a.m. My motivation ran high today because I had Gus for company, a zero-day coming tomorrow, and a nice climb up Stratton Mountain where I’d been promised the “best views in Vermont.”

Back to the LGT

Puffy clouds sailed through blue skies above the trailhead when I left the van. The forecast called for no rain today. Finally, I’d get some views in Vermont. But not right away, as the trail plunged into the dark LGT as soon as it left the road. Because of the thick tree cover, I never noticed the clouds moving in until I’d climbed high enough that mists started swirling around me as I approached the summit.

So much for my view, unless the clouds burned off quickly or I chanced on a little gap in the clouds like the one that briefly revealed the Greylock Memorial Tower two days ago. I’d had that happen on a climb up Scotland’s Ben Nevis and several times on Grand Canyon hikes. I could always hope.

Where’d Everyone Go?

Once again, Gus and I had the forest to ourselves. Like yesterday, we saw no hikers, birds, or critters. I’d passed a tent at the trailhead, though the woods were so dark under the trees I could barely see the man standing next to it. We saw no one at all on the trail until we’d done 15 miles and were approaching Manchester.

Where is everyone? I met or saw dozens of people in New Jersey, New York, Connecticut, and Massachusetts. If they fell behind, why haven’t I caught the next batch? If they all got ahead of me, which I know isn’t true, why haven’t others caught up to me?

Stratton Summit

Eventually, I reached the Stratton Summit. Without the tower and a commemorative plaque, I’d never have recognized it among the tall pines that completely blocked any chance of a view. I climbed the tower, braving the gusty wet wind and cold, as well as slick steps that were so steep Gus had to drop the stick he’d carried up from the shelter. The tower cleared the treetops but not the thick clouds, which limited visibility to about 100 feet.

A blue blaze trail split off to the north toward the Stratton Mountain ski lift. Some thru-hikers take the lift down to the ski village for food and lodging, but I doubted the lift was running before 9:00 a.m. on a Monday or in this weather. And I didn’t need food or a place to sleep. I needed to finish today’s hike and start on a zero. So, Gus and I climbed back down the tower, left the summit, and headed toward Manchester.

Off the Mountain

I supposed I could have sat around and waited for the clouds to lift, but the stiff wind and my sweaty clothes made for a chilly combination. Reluctantly, Gus and I plunged back into the LGT and the storybook mists that made roots look like tentacles and gave me the sense that the trees were awake, watching and plotting.

As we left, I checked FarOut and noted that we’d pass no overlooks, geographic features, or anything else until a few miles before Manchester. So, I pulled out the ear pods, flipped on the Audible app, and started in on Wintersteel, Book 8 of the Cradle series.

A Bright Spot

Gradually, as we descended Stratton Mountain, the clouds started to lift, and the skies lightened. When the trail popped out of the woods and joined a limited-access forest road about a mile before Prospect Rock, we actually had a sliver of blue sky above us. What a pleasure to walk the gravel surface under a sunny sky, with enough room for Gus to walk by my side instead of trailing behind. Gus loved it, excitedly dashing ahead and spinning around to look at me before running back when called. Is there anything better than a happy dog?

We stopped for an early lunch to enjoy the view of Manchester from Prospect Rock, soaking up the sun and letting a light breeze keep the mosquitos at bay. Northstar texted that she’d gotten a motel in town and that they’d let her in early, so we packed up to hustle down the meetup spot four miles away.

Is Today the Solstice?

As we left, we saw our first hiker of the day. To clarify, we saw all of our first hiker of the day. He wore boots, socks, and a backpack. And nothing else. Except a baseball cap, I guess because he thought he needed sun protection under the trees. No protection needed for the rest of him. Poison ivy, ticks, rain, mud, sun, cold, or mosquitos… no problem. Really, I loved that he wore the hat.

He said nothing as he passed, and I certainly had nothing to say. I pointedly looked the other direction, embarrassed for him, as he proved, once again, my Fundamental Law of Naked People in the Wilderness. Let’s just say Michaelangelo did not use him for a model for the David sculpture, though possibly for his less well-known depiction of a hairier, chubbier, less manly subject that probably never sold.

And no, I didn’t take a picture. Ugh.

Did You See That?

I passed two more southbounders after ugly naked guy. I thanked the first guy for being clothed and he responded that he’d heard a naked hiker was in front of him. Then he asked to take a picture of Gus. I said he could, but then asked, “Why?” He said he was documenting his hike and wanted to include a page of dogs he’d seen. But he didn’t offer up any contact information and didn’t want Gus to pose or even to face him. Weird.

The second guy knew all about the naked hiker, so I assumed they were together. From the way he talked about it, I guessed naked guy had lost a bet.

Maybe hiking alone isn’t so bad after all.

Daily Stats

• Start: Kelly Stand Road (Mile 1,639.6)
• End: VT 30 (Mile 1,659.1)
• Weather: Cool. Low clouds and moist early, then sunny, with puffy clouds by mid-day
• Earworm: Stupid Taylor Swift. You owe me an apology, Beth.
• Meditation: A Conversation with Jesus
• Plant of the Day: Shelf fungus
• Goals: Miles, Stratton Peak
• Best Thing: The hat
• Worst Thing: A toss up – either no views on Stratton Mountain or the ugly view after Prospect Rock.