Day 130: Like Medicine for My Soul

Morning Mists

An enchanting fog, wet enough to make the leaves drip like rain, swirled through the trees and floated sleepily down Upper Goose Pond Road at our boondocking spot. When I climbed out of the van this morning, the chill air whispered that crisp Autumn would soon replace Summer’s heat and humidity.

A hazy sun tried to burn through low mists hanging over a broad swamp the trail crossed on parallel wooden planks just before it started climbing out of Goose Notch. As I stood on the wobbly planks, shivering and scouting for moose, I tried to remember where I’d stowed my long johns, fleece, and hat months ago. I wouldn’t need them today, but I will soon.

Some mornings are magical. Some are full of promise. This morning was both.

Goals

Today’s goal was to climb well on three significant ascents that added up to more than 6,000 feet of total elevation gain over 19.6 miles, a good test for when I entered the heart of the White Mountains in a few days. Hopefully, I’d catch some views with all that climbing.

Climb #1: Holt’s Ledge

The climb up Holt’s Ledge wasn’t particularly steep, muddy, or steppy, but the 1,200-foot ascent had my blood pumping enough that I stopped to remove a layer as I took in the view from one of the many lookouts along the way. Rivers of thick clouds flowed through the valleys below, making islands of the mountains and marking out the lakes and rivers.

Chain link fences cordoned off the highest cliffs at the summit, protecting falcon hunting habitat and probably more than a few inebriated frat boys, given the proximity to the top of Dartmouth’s ski lift. I discovered the ski center after missing an unmarked turn, walking a half-mile downhill, and realizing I hadn’t seen a white blaze for a while.

I hiked back uphill, found the turn, and noticed that someone had pulled all the branches that blocked the wrong path into the underbrush, probably to clear the way for hikers coming from the ski slopes. I reblocked the false trail and continued hiking, wishing I’d brought a can of white paint. Trail junctions have been poorly marked since New York.

Even with the extra mile, climb #1 was so satisfying. I felt strong and caught some epic views. I even saw my first fall color, two red trees standing alone on a distant mountainside.

A Blue-Ribbon Blue Blaze

The descent off Holt’s Ledge ended at Dorchester Road, an unpaved rural lane that leads to the Dartmouth Ski Lodge. I opened my FarOut app to figure out where the trail went and noticed that it paralleled the road, recrossing it 1.9 miles north. Since Dartmouth had already given me an extra mile, I thought it owed me a break. I took the road.

I’m glad I did, and not just for the chance to briefly escape the path of the white-blazing sheeple glued to the ATC-mandated track. I came to see the woods, but not just the woods. My occasional blue blazes take me past other parts of Appalachia that the trail avoids. I like seeing the homes, communities, and people who live in these mountains.

I passed a variety of beautiful and rundown homes and cabins, rustic and restored barns, and dilapidated and gentleman’s farms. I even passed an interesting sculpture garden comprised of what I guess were huge steel milk-bottle people. But acres of manicured and natural wildflower displays outshone the other art. I hadn’t seen flowers like that in months.

Two of the three cars that drove by stopped to ask if I needed anything, and one of them offered me an “ice-cold seltzer,” telling me I could leave the can on her car at the trailhead up the road. The third one, an old pickup truck, nearly ran me off the road.

I’d have missed all that if I’d stuck to the official trail.

Climb #2. Lambert Peak

The 2,400-foot climb up Lambert Peak took a little more time and effort than the first climb of the day, but it delivered a better payoff. The trail passed several overlooks from glacially sculpted granite outcrops, and continually offered glimpses of the surrounding valleys through the trees. The steep ascent had me sweating, and one short climb on iron rungs driven into a steep bedrock slab gave me a boost of adrenaline.

Near the halfway point, I saw a fire tower a thousand feet above me on the next ridge and decided that would be where I’d eat lunch. Climbs like this were what I envisioned when I set out on the AT. It’s been a long time coming.

I arrived at the fire tower to find it open, with 360-degree views from the glassed-in observation deck, and perfect weather for change. Like every other tower I’ve climbed along the AT, and most of the shelters I’ve stopped at, some turd named “Smokemaster” had left his signature in black marker on the wall.

Lunch With Beardy

When I climbed down the tower, Beardy and the lady who’d given me the seltzer were having lunch and talking about road walking in the Shenandoah’s. The lady made a point of telling me I’d been off the trail when we met. She didn’t like my explanation that I knew exactly where I was, but every once in a while, you have to stop following the sheep along the white blazes. If I had stuck to the trail, I’d have missed out on a nice cold drink, as well as all the other cool things I’d seen.

She must be a purist, because she gave me a bit of a stink-eye as she hurriedly packed up and left, while Beardy and I compared notes on other blue blazes and road walks we’d enjoyed in Pennsylvania, as well as how much we’d enjoyed the trail today and yesterday.

Beardy went on to say that trail conditions had sucked for a while. He’d lost a friend who’d quit in Connecticut, saying the heat, humidity, and bugs were just too much. They’d hiked together since Georgia.

I wonder how many times I’ve heard hikers say that lately. And I wonder how many thru-hikers have dropped out in the last month. Too many. If you’ve made it this far, you probably have the legs to get to Maine. At this point, it’s a mental game.

Climb #3: Mt. Cube

After the first two climbs, the hike up Mount Cube was an afterthought, even though at 1,700 feet, the ascent was no cake walk. The summit offered views from pine-bounded rock ledges, but I was too tired to sit and savor them. Plus, the gnats had come out as the clouds had blown in, so I hurried down the mountain to meet Northstar before the rain arrived.

Like Medicine for My Soul

I finished the day tired, footsore, and a little hangry. I hadn’t managed my eating and water intake very well, leaving about half of my 3-liter water bladder and most my lunch untouched. I’d only taken one break, my lunch stop at the fire tower. And I’d hiked alone all day, seeing only two northbounders and only speaking to Beardy at lunch.

But I had so much fun. I loved this hike. I loved enjoying the AT again, two days in a row. The weather was superb. The trail was in great condition, with nice views, minimal mud, and clear walkways.

I don’t know what tomorrow will bring, but today was medicine for my soul.

 Daily Stats:

• Start: Upper Goose Pond Road (Mile 1,770.0)
• End: NH25A (Mile 1,789.6)
• Weather: Perfect – cool, sunny, breezy, dry.
• Earworm: The Caissons were rolling again
• Meditation: Jn 3:16
• Plant of the Day: Golden Rod
• Best Thing: Multiple views
• Worst Thing: Sore feet